Marlén Mendoza Brews Bold Flavors at Ema HTX

Mornings, and especially weekends, around the triangle formed by North Main, 19th Street. and Studewood in the Heights tend to get super busy, primarily due to the hordes of Houstonians who have discovered Ema HTX. The restaurant’s exquisite, mostly Mexican-inspired baked products, breakfast masterpieces, and meticulously crafted coffees have earned its owners both a 2024 Texas Michelin Bib Gourmand and a Houston Finalist spot in the 2025 James Beard Awards. One of the three founders of Ema, and the one in charge of all things java, is out-and-proud roaster Marlén Mendoza.

A native of Houston’s historic Segundo Barrio, Marlén has gained a considerable following over the years, forming her own company, Amanecer Coffee Co., and roasting beans for several area businesses (which are also for sale at local farmers markets). Sojourns to Honduras, Brazil, and Mexico helped solidify her passion for coffee, and her love for Latino culture and flavors informed a line of her own flavor-packed concoctions that have become some of the most coveted morning elixirs in town.

It didn’t take long for Houstonians to start lining up for Marlen’s incredible Oaxacan horchata cold brew, a chilled atole with espresso, and a spectacular creation called Xoco Mocha, featuring a cacao base layered with velvety cajeta, oat milk, and the fragrant herb hoja santa.

In 2024, Marlén joined forces with local chefs Stephanie Velasquez and Nicolas Vera to create Ema HTX, which has quickly become a destination breakfast spot for locals and visitors. The trio became consumed with a desire to meld their shared experiences with top quality ingredients to create a place that glorifies their love for Mexico, yet creates an experience that could only be Houston.

“It’s our attention to detail that really makes us special,” Marlén boasts. “We’ve visited the best breakfast palaces of Mexico City and other places we’ve traveled, and our goal is to bring so much of those special places we know back to Houston. We’re changing the way Houstonians think about breakfast.”

Hoja santa French toast, redolent of anise? Chilaquiles smothered in the tender Mexican brisket known as suadero and topped with dill sour cream, piquant salsa verde, and homemade queso fresco? Some of the best conchas north of Mexico City’s legendary El Cardenal? And the conchas come coated with vanilla, cacao, matcha, almonds, or blue corn. No wonder diners eagerly wait in lines that often stretch out the door and down the sidewalk.

Marlén strongly suggests that diners order the Horchata Berlinesa as soon as they see it, because it’s usually the first item to sell out. This seemingly simple brioche donut stuffed with a horchata cream filling is a perfect blend of Europe and the flavors that make calorie-cruising the streets of CDMX neighborhoods like Roma and Condesa such a delight. You’ll see why the New York Times named it one of the best dishes in America in 2024.

“Another must-try is our café de olla. We make ours with an espresso brew and a mélange of spices. There’s really none quite like it in Houston,” says Marlén, adding that the café de olla is also available in many other formats, such as a bracing iced latte or a flat white.

Ema’s success means little rest for the hard-working team that creates the morning magic. When she does have spare time, Marlén spends it with her partner of two years, a hair stylist, and their two adopted cats, Lonie and Gus. Marlén describes herself as a movie buff and a true foodie, and she especially loves the intoxicating flavors of India and Pakistan. On her days off, you’re likely to find her savoring her favorite dishes in Houston’s bustling Gandhi District. And during those rare times that she has substantial time off, she enjoys long nature hikes.

Ema and Amanecer have also partnered with other LGBTQ businesses on various popups.  “I’m proudly queer, and we foresee doing a lot more with the community in the future,” she says.

Keep up with Ema HTX  on Instagram @emahtx and Amanecer Coffee Co. at @cafesitahtx.