DineOut

by Tim Brookover

LA RETURN

A Montrose hangout reopens. That’s a good thing, right?

I have harbored a grudge against La Strada, which reopens any minute on Westheimer nearly two years after a destructive fire. This bad attitude doesn’t owe to the food, which I always found just fine, even exceptional. Rather, my pique arose from an incident with an overly familiar waiter.

Let me take you back to the late ’80s. Old Bush brooded in the White House. George Michael still had “Faith” in his pre-tearoom career, and Whitney Houston got “So Emotional” (long before she told Diane Sawyer, “I make too much money to use crack”).

I had at last made a lunch date with the object of my long-time affection, a brown-eyed knockout I had mooned over since high school. Let’s call him Brian. At last, Brian and I were seated at a window table one sunny afternoon, chatting and grinning. To me, the world was bright.

Our waiter appeared. Even before taking a drink order, he commenced flirting with Brian. He twinkled. He rubbed Brian’s shoulder. He plopped down at the table. He gave me the regard he would offer a potted plant. I fumed.

After that lunch I rarely saw Brian, and for quite a while I shunned La Strada for spite. Then a few years ago my boss at the time organized a dinner there. I reluctantly attended—and enjoyed an evening of marvelous food, which included a memorable snapper, beautifully grilled with no butter or oil, flavored only with balsamic vinegar and herbs (I was then dedicated to a no-fat diet). Even better, the service struck the right note—pleasant but most professional.

I returned to La Strada, though almost never on Sunday. I could not abide the popular brunch (too many noisy drunks acting fabulous). Still, I will certainly check out the resurrected spot (322 Westheimer, 713/523-1014), especially since it sits around the corner from the office. But I think I will ask for a female server.

Tim Brookover wrote about the new Dessert Gallery in the November issue.

If you have any comments about this article, please email them to letters@outsmartmagazine.com.