DINEOUT

by Eric A. T. Dieckman

DOGGONE GOOD

Barnaby's Cafe, the namesake of a beloved canine pal, turns 10

About a year and a half ago, I moved to a small apartment about a block away from the corner of Montrose and Westheimer. For me, there were gobs of benefits to moving to the spot, despite the less-than-favorable reputation of the landlord. The view is great. I would be minutes, if not seconds, away from practically anything I'd ever want to do. Everything hip is in walking distance. Pride parade is just down the street-no parking worries there. And, moreover, over a dozen fantastic restaurants are all a stone's throw away, the gem being Barnaby's, the cool one, the original (604 Fairview, 713/522-0106). Although my landlord has lived up to his unsavory advance word, I have since renewed my lease; Barnaby's is one reason why.

Celebrating its 10th year this month, Barnaby's is just as much a Montrose landmark as it is an exceptional restaurant. Principal owner Jeff Gale named the place after his deceased lifelong pal, a sheep dog, and the pooch's image lives on at all Barnaby's locations. The menu, primarily good ol'-fashioned comfort food, reflects the people of the neighborhood itself, down-to-earth with an eccentric flair. This is one of those rare restaurants where the meatloaf is both excellent and affordably priced. With two huge piles of mashed potatoes and a mound of vegetables on the side, not taking about half of it home with you is a challenge. Then there's the blue cheese and bacon burger, the rack of tender smoked ribs, the crispy shoestring fries, veggie faves like the Pacific Rim stir fry and a mouth-watering spinach-and-cheese lasagna. And, oh dear God, the heavenly crust on the apple pie a la mode. The quality is always top notch, enough to make a dear doggie proud.