Owners and operators Adrian
Rodrigues and Gregory Webb, along with another partner, have taken over 414
West Gray to bring us Estancia Grill. The atmosphere is authentically South
American with the eclectic mix of exposed brick, colorful tiles, stone walls
and floors. Once you’re seated, a cozy cavern-like feeling comes over the
room and succulent aromas float out of the open kitchen–I happen to love
the smell of meat searing over a wood fire. If you’re a carnivore, try
Estancia.
Adrian and Gregory have
been searching for eight years for an opportunity like this and are very excited
about the future. Gregory was voted chef of the year by the Houston Chronicle
in 1998. After some financial difficulties at his own restaurant, Gregory’s,
he jumped at the opportunity to work with his friend Adrian. These men share
a culinary philosophy of which the key is to provide personalized service and
high-quality food, so together they developed Estancia, building on the previous
tenant’s concept. Gregory considers himself a "food anthropologist,"
collects cookbooks, is formally trained in French and Italian cooking, but mostly
practices Gulf Coast cuisine. This experience combined with his recent fascination
with Latin food helped him to design the new menu.
Gregory brings with him
some of his most famous dishes, such as the Black Opal Duckling, which won the
Wild Game Cookoff of 1996 and was voted the best dish of the year in 1998 by
the Houston Chronicle. The Estancia menu is extensive and creative. There
are many Latin favorites such as empanadas, ceviche, bife de lomo, and
pollo a la planca. But there are also several Italian-style salads and
pastas, as well as more traditional American entrees like the centercut pork
chop and butterflied leg of lamb. What Gregory has tried to do is include complex
dishes that "wake up the mouth by touching all the tastes."
Aside from the recipes,
the food at Estancia is a result of a South American grilling style–the
parilla. A variety of lightly flavored woods is used, like apple. A large
fire is built at the back of the slanted grill: The meats’ flavors and
juices are quickly seared over the hot spots and then moved to the cooler sides
to finish cooking. If you and a friend are feeling adventurous, try the ultimate
grilling experience, Estancia’s parilla mista (mixed grill): beef
rib-eye, sweetbreads, kidneys, lamb, pork loin, and half-spiced chorizo (Friday
or Saturday nights only).
Since Estancia Grill opened
on September 1, Gregory has been energetically training his kitchen staff while
Adrian has been training his waitstaff to his high level of service. The two
are now happy with what they have to offer and are ready for serious customers.
Gregory says that he loves getting personal requests. Everything is made à
la minute, so if, for instance, you don’t like onions in your chosen entree,
the chef will easily omit them.
When I tested them out they
rose to my request beautifully. Our server described an enticing-sounding dinner
special, basically a glorified surf and turf. After I had ordered my gnocchi,
the special kept ringing in my ears, my friends kept talking about the exciting
dishes they were expecting, and amazing grill smells wafted over the table.
After 10 minutes of torture, I hastily called for the server and requested to
alter my order, asking instead for just half an order of the pasta and adding
only the grilled lobster from the dinner special. It was delicious and exactly
what I wanted. And this is what Adrian and Gregory want–for the customer
to come in and enjoy themselves–even if they need to bend a little to help.
I highly recommend the camarones
diablo. Fresh shrimp are flashed with mescal in a cast-iron pan with olive
oil, garlic, and five types of chiles–one being the chipolte, which adds
a lovely smoky zing–diced tomatoes, and a squeeze of lime. The concoction
is then served on a warm crunchy flour tortilla. Don’t share this one,
it’s too good. We also liked the chicken empanada, the oregano spiced meat
packed into a light dough that comes out nice and crispy.
If you enjoy a sweet ending
to your meal, then you definitely want to factor in the richness of South American
desserts when you order your appetizer and main course. Estancia Grill offers
not only the Latin favorites tres leche and dulce de leche–both
heavy hitters–but also cheesecake, chocolate tiramisu, and icing-filled
carrot cake. An espresso coffee is a must at this point.
Located on lower West Gray,
Estancia Grill is a fine place to stop on your way to or from the Alley Theatre
for dinner, but also try it out for lunch if you’re in the neighborhood.
The lunch menu has several of the dinner items–with lunch prices–along
with soups, salads, and sandwiches. I really enjoyed my stuffed poblano chile:
a roasted poblano chile filled with grilled vegetables and goat cheese topped
with cilantro lime cream sauce, served with wonderfully spicy, plump kidney
beans, saffron-flavored rice, and grilled vegetables. The portions are very
generous, so unless your job allows for an afternoon siesta, skip the appetizers.
One of the great aspects
to this restaurant is that the location attracts a wide variety of customers.
At the surrounding tables friends were visiting, lovers whispering, and families
squabbling, creating a lively cosmopolitan buzz. The open kitchen concept allows
the customers to peek in on the food to see what looks good, but it also gives
Gregory the chance to keep an eye on the diners. If you want an up-close and
personal eating experience, sit at one of the "chef tables" located
along the kitchen: From there you’ll be able to fulfill your culinary whims.
Even if you settle into one of the quieter tables, be sure to introduce yourself
to Adrian and Gregory, and I'm sure they'll make you feel very welcome.
