A tapas-style taste of Houston

Baba Yega
2607 Grant St. (Missouri St.)
713/522-0042
A Montrose institution. Sometimes we're tempted to eat here every day, it's so homey and healthy. We especially love Tuesday pasta night ($9.95 for the pasta du jour and a glass of wine), their "Old Smokey" noshing platter of salmon with accoutrements, their in-house sesame dressing, Sunday brunch, and almost any of their specials. If you're feeling outdoorsy, you have the choice of their open patio under the trees, the covered patio, or the porch facing their secret garden. $

Baich's Bar and Grille
2016 Main
713/650-8830
Baich's (pronounced Bay-Chess) Bar and Grill is housed on the ground floor of the 2016 Main Condo. Serving uptown Southwest quisine in a downtown atmosphere, this classy spot is the perfect location for a quiet romantic dinner. For starters try the corn crab chowder, a Baich's specialty made with sweet yellow corn and fresh lump crabmeat. There are pizzas, pasta, and a variety of sumptuous entrees: my favorite being the Southwestern Pasta consisting of chicken breast grilled to perfection, black beans, and pico de gallo with a tomato-cilantro cream sauce over fettucini. The art covering the walls is by superstar artist and 2016 Main resident Kermit Eisenhut. Live jazz on Friday nights. Entrance on Main with valet parking. $$

Barnaby's Cafe
604 Fairview (Hopkins)
713/522-0106
Downhome and healthy, what a combination. Our favorites are their meatloaf (and those garlic mashed potatoes!), their burgers (the big, cooked-to-order kind), hickory-smoked "pink" chicken, and spinach and cheese lasagna. Except for the burger, all of these are big enough to split. And they serve up the biggest glass of wine in Houston. The original location is near and dear to our heart, although you have to like funky, intimate, clattery atmosphere. If you like a sleeker aura, maybe you'd prefer the new River Oaks location. $

Beck's Prime
Multiple locations.
These upscale burger joints have been touted as the best in Houston, although many complain of inconsistent hamburgers, which sometimes taste like ground sirloin and other times like a prefab from Sam's. But there's no denying their unforgettable fries, the thick, skin-on kind that can be cooked extra crispy on request, nor their dessert-sized mocha shakes. And the Alpine Chicken sandwich-basted in hickory barbecue with sautÈed onions, mushrooms and Swiss cheese-makes you wish you were bulimic so you could just keep on eating. $

benjy's
2424 Dunstan (b/w Kelvin and Morningside)
713/522-7602
Lose those distracting mirrors and you've got pure orgasmic Asian fusion in a single-page menu. Seared tuna wraps stuffed with goat cheese and fresh greens are indescribably delicious and served with thin, crispy veggie chips; inventive salads will make you second-guess yourself, so bring several companions and split everything. $$

Boulevard Bistrotz
4319 Montrose (just past Richmond)
713/524-6922
Houston's culinary queen Monica Pope delves into culinary wanderlust every time she mixes a drink with her signature fruit-infused alcohol. Her eclectic New American menu includes a Mediterranean sampler plate and salad Nicoise that you'll dream about until your next visit. Come for Sunday brunch, where funk meets haute couture, and taste scones the size of Mars, fluffy frittatas, and a dreamy cherry chocolate bread pudding. $$

Cabo
2187 Portsmouth (@ Greenbriar)
713/527-8226
419 Travis (@ Prairie)
713/225-2060
It's loud, it's boisterous, it's almost always standing-room-only (unless you're there for a late lunch), and it's crawling with twentysomethings most weekend nights. But their killer margaritas, cilantro-infused fish tacos, whopping sandwiches with crispy plantain chips, and mouth-burning shrimp habanero tacos and quesadillas guarantee good eats along with its yuppie reputation.$

Cafe Chino
6140 Village Pkwy (b/w Amherst & Times)
713/524-4433
600 Travis (tunnel level @ Texas)
713/223-1011
Houston Chronicle food editor Ann Criswell was dead on when she referred to CafeChino's ethereal seared green beans as "a little slice of heaven." Owner Eddie Chen prides himself on his glass-enclosed kitchen and piping hot wok, and he should: each dish is meticulously prepared, and-try as they might-no other restaurant can duplicate those famous green beans, or that wonderfully textured cashew shrimp and chicken. And, contrary to its Hunan label, Chen added sushi to his already winning menu early last year. $$

Chapultepec
813 Richmond Ave. (@ Montrose)
713/522-2365
A sentimental favorite, and the place where the bold and beautiful can nurse their hangovers 24 hours a day. Get a bite of Tex-Mex at its best-no lard, only the freshest meats and vegetables, and the nicest owners you'll ever meet. Francisco Valle and his wife Thelma came across the Mexican border with four quarters and created a Richmond haven that's stood in its original spot for more than 25 years. Ole. $

Cheesecake Factory
5015 Westheimer (in the Galleria)
713/840-0600
Get over the two-hour wait. With portions this big, you'll need the time to wander the Galleria and work up an appetite. The spiral bound menu boasts 22 pages of eclectic eats, but you may as well stop at the appetizers and save the rest for another trip. Make an entire meal out of the avocado eggrolls, brie and avocado melt, corn cakes, or Thai lettuce wraps, and top it off with their signature White Chocolate Raspberry Truffle cheesecake. Then head to the nearest heart center. $$

Churrascos
2055 Westheimer (@ S. Shepherd), 713/527-8300; 9705 Westheimer (@ Gessner),
713/952-1988; 1320 W. Bay Area Blvd. (Friendswood), 281/461-4100
The best thing that's happened to carnivorous Dixie since barbecue. The operative word here is beef-mouth-watering, succulent prime beef tenderloin basted with their signature chimichurri sauce (made from olive oil, fresh garlic, parsley, and spices) and char-grilled to order. Great grilled vegetables, empanadas, and seafood, too, but the piece de resistance is the creamy tres leches dessert, which other restaurants have failed to imitate successfully. $$$

Chianti
1515 South Post Oak Lane
713/840-0303
Sequestered in a little pocket of Tanglewood, this Italian sleeper exudes quaint-from the streamlined rustic Italian food to its sunken greenhouse of a dining room. Befitting its setting, the menu offers classic garden-variety Italian, except for the extraordinary stuffed artichoke, Insalata Caprese, and a spinach- and ricotta-stuffed ravioli lounging in a butter-sage pool with a simplicity that's almost startling. It's available for private parties in arguably the most picturesque setting in Houston (picturesque save for the ultra-hip martini bar tacked on to its western hip). $$

Colina's Italian Cafe
3835 Richmond Ave. (@ Weslayan)
713/621-8844
2400 Times Blvd. (Rice Village)
713/365-9497
12311 Kingsride
With its reliable Italian food, unpretentious feel, and BYO wine option (with no corking fee), Houston yuppies flock to these neighborhood locations. And as long as you don't expect haute cuisine, you'll be perfectly content. Order the pizza Marguerite and one of the antipasto salads and you may even border on exhilaration. $

Dalat Vietnamese Bistro
3241 Southwest Fwy (Buffalo Spdwy & Edloe)
713/669-9375
A delightful little bistro with rare patio seating, right in Westpark's new restaurant row. Already known for its fresh chicken or pork vermicelli bowls, Vietnamese grilled fish hand wraps, and giant, perfectly textured calamari. With great food, no wait, and excellent service, go now before it rises to restaurant fame. $

Dessert Gallery
3200 Kirby Drive (behind CafeExpress)
713/522-9999
A charming haven for dessert addicts, where Sugarbusters devotees and the calorie-challenged enter at their own risk. Convince your dentist to go public, buy up as many shares as you can afford, and inform the public of this after-dinner sweet fest. Put more clearly, their chocolate-dipped cookies make Mrs. Fields taste store-bought. $

Dish
2300 Westheimer
713/528-2050
Sleek and stylish, Dish offers a refined American menu at fabulous prices. Sister restaurant of Benjy's in the Village, Dish continues in chef/owner Aaron Guest's commitment to a singular dinning experience at affordable prices. For starters, try the arugula salad, or the fried goat cheese and wild mushrooms turnovers. Our pork chop and salmon entrees had the entire table vying for first dibs on our plate. More than just the flavor of the month, this is the place to see and be seen.

Eatzi's Market & Bakery
1702 Post Oak Blvd. (@ San Felipe)
713/629-6003
Its Alice in Wonderland myriad of choices (approximately 1,500) is a tad overzealous, but the presentation of this gourmand deli take-out is so stunning you'll be drooling within minutes. Everything baked is gorgeous and crusty, and the glass-enclosed salads, sides, and entrees span the globe. Take home an array of prepared dishes-asparagus, couscous, stuffed filet mignon wraps, a half-dozen or more chicken salads, several dozen pasta salads, just to give you a taste-and your guests will think you slaved for hours. Of course, all this comes with a price tag, so bring your Amex and prepare yourself for a food-filled obstacle course. $

Estancia Grill
414 West Gray
713/807-1111
An open grill is the focal point of the kitchen at this casual upscale eatery. Already known for its Argentinian dishes, the new menu features cuisine from all of the Americas including Mexico and other Latin American countries. The bar menu serves up mouth-watering tapas. Also served are pastas, steaks and seafood entrees along with a variety of soups, salads and sandwiches all of which reflect the bold flavors of South America. Best of all, chef Greg Webb promises to dish up some of his favorite items, most notably the Opal Duckling. The atmosphere sparkles with simple elegance and the service is attentive. $$

Golden Room
1209 Montrose (@ Dallas)
713/524-9614
True to its name, this gold-gilded Thai-Chinese will have you rubbing elbows with the entire room-literally. Some find it a bit too intimate for private conversation, but the chicken wraps, spicy curries, and flavorful soups are meant for sharing, so dig in. Just don't burn your tongue. $$

Gugenheim's Delicatessen
1708 Post Oak Blvd. (@ San Felipe)
713/622-2773
Open wide and you still won't be able to close your mouth around one of these famous triple stackers. Where else but this New York clone can you order a beef brisket "jawbreaker" and have enough left over for the next two nights? Giant matzo balls, crispy potato pancakes served with dollops of sour cream and apple sauce, cheese-filled blintzes, and the flakiest knishes to rival either of those other coasts. Knishes, blintzes, you ask? Don't ask. Just eat! $

Hobbit Cafe
2243 Richmond (@ Portsmouth)
713/526-5460
It's open again and we're happy: because this locale actually provides parking. Enter Houston's beloved Tolkien sanctuary and revel in its prolific menu, featuring Fatty Lumpkin and Bilbo the Magnificent (they're sandwiches, but unlike any you've ever experienced). While it tends to cater to vegetarian tastes, even the Birkenstock-deprived will appreciate the sprawling deck and heaping servings. And contrary to its herbivorous reputation, it offers meat beyond the token veggie burgers-such as real bacon cheeseburgers, tuna salad and jerk chicken. Both the "classic" and regular sandwiches are huge, so you may as well have them doggy bag half before they serve it. The owner actually waits tables, so you know your voice counts. $

JAGS
5120 Woodway (@ Sage)
713/621.4765
Like most of us, you've probably only experienced Jackson Hicks cuisine at holiday parties or other high-scale galas-or you've only dreamed about it. Don't fret. For a mere jaunt to the Decorative Center, you too can eat the food of the gods (for a price, that is). It's worth it at least once, just to say you did. Count on Hicks-style tortilla soup to be exactly what a good tortilla soup should be. Quirky salads, sandwiches, and entrees make choosing an effort, but nothing disappoints, especially the service (how could it, with such attentive waiters?). $$

Jalapenos
2702 Kirby Dr. (@ Westheimer)
713/524-1668
This River Oaks standby boasts spinach enchiladas so undeniably delicious that all others pale in comparison. They're an orchestration of taste and texture, with spinach just the right consistency-not grainy, mushy or stringy, but fusing with the cheese and cream sauce to create a texture all its own. Their ultimate secret, however, lies in the iced tea. It's always perfect, which tells you how much thought they put into things that others often find trivial. You'll always find a table, and their type-A waiters guarantee speedy, attentive service. $

Kam's
4500 Montrose Blvd.
713/529-5057
Located right at the juncture of where Montrose turns into the museum district, we like to go to Kam's when we're in the mood for upscale Chinese food in an elegant, quiet, yet unpretentious, atmosphere. The white tablecloths, genial waiters, and view of Montrose out of Kam's storefront windows are all oddly soothing. Although some complain that Kam's cuisine is rather Americanized, we are longtime fans of their sesame chicken, Singapore vermicelli, wrinkly sautÈed green beans, and crispy hot and sour whole fish (although it's been known to seem slightly less than fresh). $$

Lai Lai Dumpling House
9262 Bellaire Blvd.
713/271-0080
The best dive on Bellaire, not to mention the best Chinese for the least bucks. No kidding-how about feeding a group of 12 for under $50? Soothe your soul with the Tofu Hot Pot, chock full o' steaming fresh vegetables and firm chunks of tofu. Or the pork- and veggie-filled dumplings, or the green onion pancakes, or just about anything on their menu. Top off with a fortune cookie and you're set till your next craving. $

Last Concert Cafe
1403 Nance St.
713/226-8563
Dishing up classic Tex-Mex in the warehouse district since 1952, the Last Concert is the original "insiders'" joint: Oftentimes you have to knock on their red curtained door for entry, and in Larry McMurtrey's Terms of Endearment, Aurora (the Shirley MacLaine character) takes a date here for a late-night flirtation. (Although a rat is mentioned nibbling a tortilla in the corner of the patio in the book, I think Larry was exaggerating for effect.) Dive aficionados will appreciate the funky atmosphere with red leatherette booths. The food's good hearty fare. We're especially fans of the potato-with-green-chili soup. $

Latina Cafe
1972 Fairview
713/521-2611
An authentic repository of soul-satisfying Cuban cooking. Dishing out plaintains of two varieties, beans in three colrs (black, red, and green), exquisite seafood creoles, ropa vieja (literally "old clothes" because that's what this shredded beef looks like), Latina Cafe has been a Montrose standby for forever, it seems. Their intimate non-fussy decor has the feel of Continental sophistication to me, an informal place where one can just relax with old friends over a glass of wine or a demi-tasse of Cuban coffee, in a cup as small as a baby's fist, yet as strong as a gym rat, and as dark as top soil. $

Lobo Bookshop & Cafe
3939 Montrose
713/522-5156
A tasty little neighborhood sandwich shop/bookstore for the adult in everyone. The pristine sandwich menu (lunch only) features tasty turkey, chicken, and roast beef sandwiches-simple, fresh, and filling. Add chips, a drink, and a touch of voyeurism and you've got a sensual meal. Bring a friend or a good book, or peruse the store for some interesting reading. If anything, it will whet your appetite. $

La Madeleine
Multiple locations.
These multi-locale haunts are America's idealization of what a French cafeshould be. Just the warm wooded decor, bottomless coffee and single-serving quiches and friands would have guaranteed success. But its tangy Caesar dressing, buttery croutons, tomato-basil soup and superb breads have earned such a devout following they can now be found in most Houston grocery stores. $

El Meson
2425 University (Rice Village)
713/522-9306
Somewhere between Pappasitos and a Florida Cuban dive, this Rice Village Cuban-Mexican is the darling of Medical Center diners. Regulars insist on the black bean soup, chunky guacamole (some say the best in the Southwest) and potent margaritas, and its low-key atmosphere make it a comfortable haven for families. We learned about yuca here (like a potato, only yummier), and have been a yuca devotee ever since. $

Mings
2703 Montrose
713/529-7888
The friendly fast-food Chinese eatery in the heart of the Montrose. Serving up stir-fries, crispy green beans, and killer egg rolls, Ming's has taken on landmark status in only four years as a late-night chopstick feast on their patio under the stars has become an essential part of the Montrose repertoire. Their staff always cheerful and welcoming, Ming's has endeared itself to the community-and many a GLBT organization has benefited from their donations.

Mosquito Cafe
628 Fourteenth Street, Galveston
409/763-1010
This trendy, sleek little cafe offers a welcome break from the typical Galveston fried seafood scene. Gay owned and operated, the Mosquito offers fresh gourmet salads, sandwiches, and pasta, and has a beautiful patio dining area with oh-so-Southern iron furniture and umbrellas and lots of tropical island flowers. Located within walking distance of the Strand. $

Niko Niko's
2520 Montrose
713/528-1308
Dishes up authentic Greek food with Kalamata olives as salty as they get. Caters as much to vegetarians as meat lovers. Grab a chicken and spinach pita on the go or chat outdoors over a plate of humus. Bring your own ambiance-everything's plastic except the food. $

Paulie's
1834 Westheimer
713/807-7271
Step into a little bit of nouveau Continental Italian and plan on settling in until someone kicks you out. After you indulge in fresh panini sandwiches-stuffed with everything from pork tenderloin, to grilled tuna with wasabi mayo, to mozzarella, roasted tomato, and avocado-you'll want to linger over a steaming cappuccino, nibble on something flaky from their in-store bakery, and hang out until dinner time to sample the equally appealing entrees. $-$$

Pig Stand No. 7
2412 Washington Ave.v 713/864-4041
Texas Pig Stands, Inc. is one of the oldest and most unusual restaurant chains in Texas. Located in the Old West End, Houston's Pig Stand No. 7 (there are eight across Texas, but only one remains in Houston) has served Houstonians since 1921. Pig Stands are famous for their chocolate shakes and Pig Sandwich Combo, a delicious barbecued pork sandwich served with french fries. Aurora, the Shirley MacLaine character in Larry McMurtrey novels, used to get cravings for a Pig Sandwich after an all-nighter; the Pig Stand on Washington even served as cover illustration for McMurtrey's Evening Star. Rivaling Baby Barnaby's on the weekend for gayest breakfast clientele, the Pig Stand's great diner breakfasts are served amid a charming "pig decor" by veteran battle-hardened waitresses who don't take any guff from anyone. A sign at the door reads "Arguing with a waitress is like wrestling with a pig in the mud, after a while you realize the pig enjoys it. $

Pot Pie Pizzeria
2207 Richmond, 713/526-1702
Who needs eggs when you can eat their baked potato pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner? This gay-owned and operated neighborhood joint will feed you till you bust. Even better, the nightly all-you-can-eat spaghetti and outdoor patio makes your gorge-fest cheap and picturesque. Perfectly boring normal folks are welcomed with open arms despite its student and bohemian clientele. $

Ragin' Cajun
4302 Richmond
713/623-6321
9600 Westheimer (at Gessner)
832/251-7171
Houston's authentic source of crawfish, red beans and rice, and anything you'd eat with tabasco. We love their fried oysters. This family business (Frank Messina and Luke Mandola) is busy just about anytime they're open. And now, after more than 20 years as a Houston institution at their atmospheric Richmond location, they opened a new restaurant in earlier this year.

Raven Grill
1916 Bissonnet
713/521-2027
This inconspicuous little dining spot is far more inviting than its Edgar Allen Poe-ish decor and name suggest. Its cozy, casual-chic ambience makes it an ideal neighborhood joint for after-work unwinding. While the food is a bland take on '90s Southwestern, the ubiquitous mesquite grilling-from moist fish entrees and portobello pesto mushrooms to angel food cake-will inspire you to experiment in your own backyard (with your grill: now get your mind out of the gutter). $$

Riva's
1117 Missouri St. (Montrose)
713-529-3450
In one of the most verdant and restful eatery atmospheres we know of, the brothers Silboyeh bring you Italian cuisine so unusually well seasoned you'll notice the pasta as well as the sauce. The simple dinner salad is alive with fresh vegetables and a tangy vinaigrette and a pleasant forecast of things to come. These men know herbs, and their fish dishes will make seafood converts out of diehard carnivores. And pastry chef Pierre kneads up some tasty little numbers. $$

River Cafe
3615 Montrose
713/529-0088
Intimate weekend hangout with great patio dining. You'll spot every car down Montrose. Broad menu serving nouveau American dishes. Accessible and friendly. If you're not hungry, try the bar. $$

Sabroso Grill
5510 Morningside (@ Times Blvd.)
713/942-9900
Price-wise it falls between Cabo and Churrascos, but in taste scores equal to both. The absolute best cilantro dressing in town, and you can order it on everything from the giant salads to the overstuffed tortas and tacos. Considering it's one of the few places you can walk in without a reservation or wait, this South American winner is clearly one of Rice Village's (and Houston's) best-kept secrets. $$

Sawadee
6719 Weslayan (@ Bellaire Blvd.)
713/666.7872
The name alone will trigger a Pavlovian response once you've tried this quaint West U. hideaway. Everything on the Thai menu is delicious, but some dishes are so beyond description you'll be hard pressed to stray once you've found your favorites. Mine include the beef or chicken with basil and peppers as well as the lemongrass coconut soup. Then again, the curried chicken is just spicy enough to induce little beads of sweat on my forehead, and the spring rolls, well...excuse me while I drool. $$

Sonoma
1415 California St.
713/522-7066
Wildly eclectic menu features steak pasta, Osso Bucco, and crispy crab cakes (heavy crab with minimal cake), bursting with fun and flavor. Very reasonable, and a great party atmosphere. For their Sunday brunch and afternoon T-Dance (on their patio, with its exhilerating wide-open view of downtown), owner Jay Allen makes the ultimate host. $$

Star Pizza
2111 Norfolk (b/w Greenbriar & Shepherd)
713/523-0800
140 S. Heights Blvd. (@ Washington)
713/869-1241
Who needs Chicago? Like everything else, Texas can out-top and out-dough the country's most famous deep-dish pizzerias. Star's whole-wheat crust is light and chewy enough to lure even the un-health conscious, and Sugarbuster devotees can devour it with uninhibited gluttony. Thankfully, the salads are not an afterthought. So before inhaling a sausage, meatball, pepperoni, and extra cheese, you can clear your conscience with the cauliflower, tomato, broccoli, carrot, and sprout-infused garden salad.$

Stone Mill Bakers (lunch only)
3191 W. Holcombe Blvd.
713/349-0077
2518 Kirby Dr.
713/524-6600
Yeah, they feature exquisite breads and giant cinnamon rolls, but don't get hung up on the name or you'll miss some amazing sandwiches. How about turkey on cranberry pecan bread, or curried chicken on thick, chewy Dakota bread, or vegetarian on jalapeno cheese bread? Call ahead for snappy lunch boxes filled with the gourmet sandwich of your choice, chips or fruit, and a cookie the size of a Frisbee (the chocolate chocolate chips are heavenly). $

La Strada
322 Westheimer (@ Taft)
713/523-1014
5161 San Felipe (@ Sage)
713-850-9999
Yes, they do more than Sunday brunch. It's called award-winning cuisine and matching wine list available to the entire population seven days a week. Two hip locations differ in style and mood, but not in the yummy, unconventional pastas or reliable bellinis. $$

Taco Milagro
2555 Kirby Dr. (@ Westheimer)
713/522-1999
CafeExpress' answer to upscale Mexican fast food enjoyed at a slow, savory pace. Chalupas come stacked with almost every ingredient in the house; salads and enchiladas are exotic versions of their brethren Tex-Mex fare. A salsa bar spanning an entire wall satisfies tastes from mild to muy caliente. Sip a cool one (with salt) to the trickle of two flowing patio fountains. $

Thai Spice
5117 Kelvin (behind & above Antone's)
713/522-5100
Starve yourself for a day, then gorge on their expansive lunch buffet (only $7.95). Even for buffet skeptics, the four variations on egg rolls and spicy Pad Thai will make a believer out of you. If you're still in doubt, sample the beef curry and satays. You may have a wait, but the place is teeming with locals and natives vouching for its authenticity, so you know it'll be worth it. $$

This Is It
207 W. Gray (@ Bagby)
713/659.1608
No other place dishes up soul food like this hearty Fourth Ward spot. Just one foot in the door, and you'll smell pork chops and collard greens like mama still makes. The cornbread is the sweetest, moistest that Houston has to offer. For the uninitiated, display just a hint of down home naiveteto the gals behind the steam table and they'll give you the skinny on each dish. $

Tony Ruppe's
3939 Montrose
713/852.0852
Standing in the former Quilted Toque location, Ruppe's California vineyard decor sets a tone of anticipation that escalates with one glance at his fusion menu. Nothing standard here; even the descriptions smack of flavorful humor. Everything from Wok-seared Hoisin Beef Summer Roll and Extreme Cuisines' Wild Half-Moon Bay Salmon to his Blazin' Summer Salad (with a delightful cilantro cream dressing), and Capellini Pasta Baked in Parchment is intricate but not overwhelming. Even the sides of Parmesan Polenta and balsamic vinaigrette-marinated vegetables are off the beaten path. From entree to dessert, Ruppe is masterful at concealing unspeakable delicacies in parchment paper. $$$

Treebeards
315 Travis (@ Preston)
713/228-2622
1100 Louisiana (tunnel level @ Lamar)
713/752-2602
1117 Texas (in Christ Church Cathedral @ San Jacinto)
713/229-8248
But for the lack of Hurricanes, you may as well be whooping it up in New Orleans, so authentic is this Cajun-Creole favorite. The lunch-hour lines move remarkably fast, but we wouldn't even mind waiting for platters of red beans and rice (with sausage, cheese and green onions), jambalaya, crawfish etouffee, and green beans coated with lemon vinaigrette. In case you didn't know, the bottomless French bread basket is there to soak up the excess sauce. $

Two Rows Restaurant & Brewery
2400 University (in the Village Arcade, second floor)
713/529-2739
Any brewery is bound to get a bad rap, but this one deserves kudos for its interesting and varied menu (it even offers health-conscious selections, so phooey on the brew pub non-believer). Refreshingly, there's barely a fried potato in the house. Instead, you'll find balsamic-marinated veggies, tasty pizzas, bountiful salads and beer-infused muffins accompanied by yummy honey spiked butter. Non-beer drinkers should at least try the homemade root beer or, better yet, in a float. $

Urbana
3407 Montrose (@ Hawthorne)
713/521-1086
Stark minimalist decor, and a classy menu that offers everything Texan and beyond, with barbecue-grilled shrimp, Comal-seared tuna, richly marinated steaks, light pastas, ingenious salads, and interesting deviations on popular '90s sides like mashed potatoes and portobello mushrooms. $$

Van Loc
3010 Milam (@ Elgin)
713/528-6441
Down-to-earth Vietnamese food (with down-to-earth decor to match) draws natives, families, and downtown yuppies alike. The extensive menu offers fresh, reasonably priced traditional dishes such as vermicelli and bun, and you can even roll your own spring rolls (but unless you've honed that skill, let them do it for you). Their classically strong Vietnamese coffee will put hair on your chest. $

Vincent's
2701 W. Dallas
713/528-4313
Rotisserie me a chicken, baby. Next door to its brother restaurant, Nino's, Vincent's gets you great Italian/American food and wine so reasonable you'll want to shout (and you'll have to if you want to be heard). Cozier in decor than Nino's, and the green beans are like CafeChino Italian style. $$

Ziggy's Healthy Grill
2320 W. Alabama
713/527-8588
Ziggy's was always healthy and wholesome, but now that the three new owners are doctors, you know you're in for a guiltless gourmet experience. Although the decor is still a bit on the utilitarian side, we seek out Ziggy's when we don't feel like being embarrassed about our urge to eat healthy-you can even ask to see their binders with the nutritional contents of all their dishes. Both healthy and yummy, they offer comfort food like lean meatloaf, sweet yam fries, and pecan acorn squash; we especially love Ziggy's baked veggie sandwich and buffalo burger. They've all sorts of wild game burgers (known for being way lower in fat than regular cow beef)-even such exotica as ostrich, antelope, caribou, or kangaroo! Their latest offering is the Tuesday happy hour, with fresh blueberry margaritas and discounted appetizers. $

The cost guide reflects the average cost of dinner with one drink and tip. Deduct about 25 percent for average lunch prices.

$ $15 and below (inexpensive)
$$ $16 to $30 (moderate)
$$$ $31 to $50 (expensive)
$$$$ $51 or more (very expensive)