OUT OF TOWN
by Andrew Collins
For many gay and lesbian travelers, a city's
arts scene ranks right up there with night life,
scenic beauty, or dining when it comes to deciding
where to plan a vacation. Devotees of certain
artists, for instance, have been known to drop
everything and fly to some faraway land to catch
the latest Picasso or Caravaggio exhibition.
With that in mind, here is a sampling of some
of the many stellar museums across the United
States, many of them with strong thematic ties
to the lesbian and gay community. Gay interest
aside, these are all museums that any devotee
of visual-especially contemporary-art would enjoy
visiting.
Amon Carter Museum, the Kimbell Art
Museum, and the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth,
Fort Worth
Dallas may draw the bulk of the visitors to north
central Texas, but some of the world's top art
museums are found in the neighboring self-described
"cow town" of Fort Worth. First, the
Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth, which in mid-December
will move into a new 153,000-square-foot space
designed by Tadao Ando, has one of the nation's
top contemporary collections. You will find major
works by Mark Rothko, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Roy
Lichtenstein, and David Hockney, among many others.
Next, the Amon Carter Museum, whose photography
collection includes works by Ansel Adams, Dorothea
Lange, and Laura Gilpin, is a shutterbug's dream.
Also note the many fine Western bronzes and paintings,
including the Thomas Eakins painting Swimming-controversial
in its day for a somewhat homoerotic depiction
of young nude men frolicking in a lake. This museum
underwent a dramatic expansion designed by gay
architectural wonder Philip Johnson, which was
completed in 2001 and tripled the size of the
original facility. When in Fort Worth, also be
certain to visit the definitive Louis Kahn-designed
Kimbell Art Museum, an exceptional collection
best-known for its famous Caravaggio work, The
Cardsharps, plus creations by El Greco, Goya,
and Rembrandt.
The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh
Although the setting for the American version
of "Queer As Folk," Pittsburgh seems the unlikely
home of a museum that celebrates one of the most
cutting-edge and gay-identified artists. But the
stellar Andy Warhol Museum, which celebrates the
life of the late pop art icon who grew up in nearby
Oakland, is a major attraction in this industrial
city. The museum occupies a dramatic 1911 building,
which was orginally a steel supply warehouse.
The 3,000 works here range from the expected Campbell
Soup cans to numerous earlier sketches and drawings
as well as Warhol's time capsules-boxes in which
he stuffed daily receipts, notes, lists, and other
minutiae. This engaging and often very funny museum
contains abundant commentary on Warhol's life
and his homosexuality.
Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago
Anchoring Grant Park is one of the world's great
repositories of creative endeavor, the Art Institute
of Chicago. The 300,000-piece collection spans
more than 40 centuries and includes the most impressive
display of Impressionist and post-Impressionist
works outside of the Louvre, as well as such iconic
works as American Gothic by Grant Wood
(long the subject of gay rumors), Edward Hopper's
Nighthawks, and Rene Magritte's Time
Transfixed. The highlights go on and on, but
in this city of famous skyscrapers you shouldn't
miss the Graham Study Center, which contains some
130,000 architectural sketches and drawings. And
the museum's mesmerizing photography collection
includes a significant chunk of Alfred Stieglitz's
works (donated after his death by his widow, Georgia
O'Keeffe) and a hauntingly evocative contemporary
shot of Provincetown by Joel Meyerowitz.
Baltimore Museum of Art, Baltimore
Adjacent to the leafy campus of Johns Hopkins
University, the Baltimore Museum of Art contains
a varied and impressive survey of works spanning
several centuries and continents. A few thousand
of the museum's holdings were donated by Dr. Claribel
Cone and Miss Etta Cone, two unmarried sisters
who with help from their friend (and sometime
lover of Etta) Gertrude Stein collected works
by Henri Matisse (500 of them), Picasso, Gauguin,
and similar luminaries. Interestingly, this is
not the only important Baltimore institution that
owes much of its success to a pair of prominent
women: The esteemed Johns Hopkins medical school
was begun with funding from Mary Elizabeth Garrett,
who raised the necessary half million dollars
to open the school with her lover, Ms. M. Carey
Thomas. More than $300,000 came from Garrett herself,
with the proviso that Johns Hopkins admit women
on the same terms that it admitted men (an almost
scandalous notion at the time). Garrett went on
to fund and help found the prestigious Bryn Mawr
School for girls and Bryn Mawr College.
Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive,
Berkeley
Fans of the avant-garde and the experimental
have long lauded this fine arts and film venue
at the left-leaning University of California Berkeley.
The museum earned notoriety in 1995 for its exceptional
and provocative exhibition In a Different Light,
which explored the gay and lesbian experience
through an extensive and eclectic display of 20th-century
artworks. Since that time, the museum has continued
to present acclaimed rotating shows, including
many with gay relevance (such as Continuous
Replay: The Photographs of Arnie Zane a couple
of years ago). Look to the Film Archive as well
to host the kinds of events and lectures that
challenge conventions. And keep in mind the museum's
7,000-piece permanent collection, which includes
an unrivaled trove of paintings by Hans Hofmann,
numerous French Impressionist works, and a superb
assemblage of Asian art.
Georgia O'Keeffe Museum, Santa Fe
Opened in summer 1997 near the historic Plaza
in the artistically rich city of Santa Fe, New
Mexico, this museum traces the life of the bisexual
artist, who resided during the last half of her
life in the village of Abiquiu, about 50 miles
to the northwest. This is a relatively small facility,
with nine galleries displaying various works from
a permanent collection of about 135 paintings
and sculptures. Sometimes criticized for providing
relatively little biographical information on
O'Keeffe or context on the works shown, the O'Keeffe
is nevertheless a must for any fan of the artist,
and it presents some excellent rotating exhibits
that bring in many works you won't see anywhere
else.
The Guggenheim, New York City
In a city containing some of the world's top
museums, the Guggenheim has always been an exceptional
venue for modern and contemporary-and often provocative-painting,
photography, and other fine arts. Solomon R. Guggenheim
founded the museum in 1937 with the specific aim
of showcasing abstract painting. Of particular
gay interest are works by Keith Haring and Jean-Michel
Basquiat and the tremendous collection of Robert
Mapplethorpe photographs (a gallery that bears
his name presents rotating exhibitions of his
pictures). And should you happen to find yourself
traveling abroad, of course don't miss the Guggenheim
Bilbao near Barcelona, Spain; the Peggy Guggenheim
Collection in Venice, Italy; the Deutche Guggenheim
in Berlin; and the GuggenheimHermitage in Las
Vegas.
Museum of Contemporary Art and the
Geffen Contemporary, Los Angeles
While it has been said, quite accurately, that
downtown Los Angeles lacks soul, it does possess
the vaunted Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA),
which has amassed a greater collection in its
63-year existence than many museums have in several
centuries. Holdings include works by such diverse
artists as Cindy Sherman, Jackson Pollock, Susan
Rothenberg, and Frank Stella. Nearby MOCA at the
Geffen Contemporary (named in 1996 for gay media
magnate David Geffen, a huge benefactor) presents
cutting-edge rotating modern-art exhibitions.
Finally, right in the heart of gay West Hollywood,
smaller shows are mounted at the MOCA Gallery
at the Pacific Design Center.
National Museum of Women in the Arts and the
Phillips Collection, Washington, D.C.
A short walk north of the Mall is the outstanding
National Museum of Women in the Arts, begun in
the early '60s by arts patrons Wilhelmina Cole
Holladay and Wallace F. Holladay, who sought to
rectify the distinct lack of art by women in most
museum collections. Their ambitious efforts resulted
in the present-day museum in 1987, which today
includes works by such prominent female artists
as Georgia O'Keeffe, Mary Cassatt, Frida Kahlo,
Elaine de Kooning, and Judy Chicago. Rotating
exhibitions are held throughout the year, and
an extensive library and research center help
further the museum's mission of recognizing the
achievements of women artists of all periods and
nationalities. While in Washington, consider also
paying a visit to the estimable Phillips Collection,
the first permanent museum of modern art in the
United States. Artists represented in the collection
include gay masters David Hockney, Marsden Hartley,
Charles Demuth, and David Hare.
Philadelphia Museum of Art, Philadelphia
This imposing museum, with front steps made famous
in the movie Rocky, is wonderful for several
reasons: its contemporary collection, with many
works by Picasso, Braque, and Matisse as well
as a number of post-World War II artists; its
outstanding Marcel Duchamp collection, which includes
renditions of his Nude Descending a Staircase
(the nude, people often overlook, is male); and
a fine collection of photos and paintings of virile
young men crewing and boating on the nearby Schuylkill
River by local artist (and bisexual) Thomas Eakins.
If you get a chance, do as Eakins used to do and
make the short trip across the Delaware River
from Philadelphia to Camden, New Jersey, to the
former home (now a museum) of the artists' close
and kindred spirit, poet Walt Whitman.
Walker Art Center, Minneapolis
As much as any city in the Midwest, Minneapolis
consciously embraces the daring, the emerging,
the unexpected, and the innovative. Nowhere is
this sensibility more evident than at the Walker
Art Center, which has earned a reputation for
presenting both the visual and performance works
of both acclaimed and up-and-coming artists. You'll
find paintings and sculpture by Marcel Duchamp,
Sherrie Levine, and Jasper Johns gracing the permanent
collection, but you might also catch a movement
workshop by Bill T. Jones or a performance by
the Urban Bush Women. And just outside the museum,
you can traipse through the 11 landscaped acres
that comprise the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden.
In fact, with one of the nation's leading theater
districts, a bevy of slick galleries and design
shops, the Leviathan Minneapolis Institute of
Arts, St. Paul's Minnesota Museum of American
Art, and the Walker, the Twin Cities collectively
offer one of the most impressive cultural arts
scenes in North America.
Andrew Collins authored the Fodor's Gay Guide
to the USA and six regional gay guides for Fodor's.
He can be reached at GayFodors@aol.com. For more
Out of Town, visit www.gaytravel.com.
The Little Black Book
Amon Carter Museum. 3501 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort
Worth, 817-738-1933, www.cartermuseum.org
Andy Warhol Museum. 117 Sandusky St., Pittsburgh,
412-237-8300, www.warhol.org.
Art Institute of Chicago. S. Michigan Ave. at
Adams St., Chicago, 312-443-3600, www.artic.edu
Baltimore Museum of Art. N. Charles and 31st
Sts., Baltimore, 410-396-7100, www.artbma.org
Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive.
2626 Bancroft Way, Berkeley, 510-642-0808, www.bampfa.berkeley.edu
Georgia O'Keeffe Museum. 217 Johnson St., Santa
Fe, 505-946-1000, www.okeeffemuseum.org
Guggenheim Museum. 1071 5th Ave., New York, 212-423-3500,
www.guggenheim.org
Kimbell Art Museum. 3333 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort
Worth, 817-332-8451, www.kimbellart.org
Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth. 1309 Montgomery
St., Fort Worth, 817-738-9215, www.mamfw.org
Museum of Contemporary Art. 250 S. Grand Ave.,
downtown Los Angeles, 213-626-6222, www.moca.org
;MOCA at the Geffen Contemporary. 152 N. Central
Ave., Little Tokyo section of downtown Los Angeles,
213-484-3350; MOCA Gallery at the Pacific Design
Center. 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213-621-2766
National Museum of Women in the Arts. 1250 New
York Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 202-783-5000, www.nmwa.org
Philadelphia Museum of Art. 26th St. and Benjamin
Franklin Pkwy., Philadelphia, 215-763-8100, www.philamuseum.org
Phillips Collection. 1600-1612 21st St. NW, Washington,
DC, 202-387-2151, www.phillipscollection.org
Walker Art Center. Vineland Place at Lyndale
Ave. S, Minneapolis, 612-375-7622, www.walkerart.org
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