DINING OUT

LOOKING TO THE EAST
By Tim Brookover

Osaka imports the flavors of Japan to Montrose
Osaka, the Japanese restaurant, has a terrific view of downtown. That feature surprises in a street-level spot tucked into a strip center, but front windows indeed look onto a vista that includes corporate spires. Memo to readers: Plan to watch the fireworks next Independence Day from a table here, with a tray or sushi and cold beverage.

This addition to the complement of Montrose eateries opened in January. Trim and immaculate, Osaka is a retreat of dark woods and Japanese prints. An illuminated sushi bar curves into the dining space and provides a stage for the chefs’ knife-wielding skills. Behind rice-paper doors, a tatami room offers a space for private dinners.

Shirley, the proprietor, and Thomas, the chef, opened Osaka after working several years at Ginza, a standard for Japanese food in Houston. (After the reporter’s attempts at transcribing their last names fails twice, Shirley smiles and opts to remain on a first-name basis.) She reports that many of their faithful Ginza customers followed them to this new post near the Westheimer-Montrose axis.

The reason is evident in the food. The wonderful sushi and sashimi menu features house specialties such as yellow-tail tuna, sea bass, and the Osaka roll. Savory noodle dishes include yaki soba, a bowl of stir-fried noodles with chunks of vegetable and slivers of meat. Dedicated carnivores can order the beef negima yaki, bite-sized sirloin rolls wrapped around green onion—ideal for popping into one’s mouth while gazing out the window and pondering the fate of the Enron tower.