DineOut
by Joy Fajardo

Wish List: Dish
Aaron Guest's sleek chic atmosphere combined with down-home succulent cuisine equals "when can we go back?" excitement

If a pocketknife were turned into a restaurant, Dish would be the result. Sleek, minimal, geometric, nothing is put to waste. Even the business cards are compact little squares with nothing but an orange dot as logo. Only the petite steel sign with "Dish" carved in it will tip Kirby roadrunners that you need to make a respectful turn, or you'll just pass right by, lost in the steady stream of oblivious luxury cars.

The starkness of Dish feels more like the atmosphere of a photo or art exhibit than a restaurant, its well-composed minimalism a refreshing getaway from the junked-out mainstream eateries that look like your grandma's attic exploded. The restaurant's space is a white cube with generously sized square windows as the only wall ornaments. The tables are brushed steel, squares (of course), with very uncomfortable, though matching, black chairs. Do get one of the booths. The bar is a sleekly designed sweep of steel lit by fashionably small, colored lights, all tucked off to the side to keep the smoke and rowdy revelry away from the dining area. Only a black wall partitions the patrons from the cooks, and the waiters, smartly dressed in crisp black shirts, stand like sentinels on the other side watching over the crowd. Turn your head ever so slightly away from the conversation, and you could find yourself surrounded by a few waiters ready to attend to your needs.

But if the walls are the canvas, and the diners the critics, then the real subjects are on display: your dish. All this sleekness and one might easily assume the menu will be a jet-setter fusion of tastes and cultures. Nope. The decor in this swank joint may be minimalist, but the cuisine is good-ole maximalist American chow. The Cobb salad ($10.50) is served in a casserole dish! There are sections, not pieces, of diced chicken, avocado, bacon, bleu cheese, walnuts, and eggs. The family-size portions are enough to be split by a party of four. Another fabulous cold dish to start off with is the wedge ($5.99), a refreshingly crisp relief from the never-ending Houston heat. Walnuts, poached apples (and there are more than a few slices of this well-done delicacy), and Roquefort dressing mix harmoniously on the plate. Or try the arugula salad ($7.50): Tossed with mushrooms, lightened with lemon, deepened with goat cheese, and cooled by skinned tomatoes, this dish is a treat. You can also get off to a good start with the turnovers ($7.50), tablets of fried goat cheese centered amidst a bath of wild mushrooms and dark sauce-the result is a crispy, rich, and warm treat.

Now, no American picnic could even begin without the macaroni and cheese. A staple from our childhood memories, the Dish's version ($5.99) comes with "expensive mushrooms," as they put it, adding a redolent and thoughtful flavor to this homey dish. The crab cakes ($8.99) are scoops of crab drizzled in a punchy Dijon sauce and blanketed with julienne vegetables: a tangy dish that is curt on the palate. The calamari ($8.50) will make you gasp with the serving size. Pushing out of the plate are not-too-chewy pieces of delicately fried squid. No more fighting over the last piece.

As for the "Big Dishes," the titles may be minimalist, but the serving size and culinary punch are anything but. For example, Dish's ode to the pork chop ($16.50) will quell any cowboy's belief that stuffed animals need to be on prominent display for a restaurant to know its meat. Dish puts together a rich and ever-so-tender bacon-wrapped morsel of a pork chop that got my entire party moaning with delight-my friend who had ordered it found himself staring at an empty plate before he'd gotten his second bite. Underscored by a woodsy flavor and served with creamy mashed potatoes and asparagus, this dish is a winner. The salmon ($16.99), is another dish you may well lose to the ingratiating forks of your dining-mates. A hearty slab of pepper-crusted salmon is afloat in a beautifully done lemon butter sauce, and topped by a "green goddess dressing." Now this dressing makes the dish. Nothing more than avocado and cream whipped together, I requested a dish of it-before long, it became the communal dipping sauce. It adds a wonderfully light sweetness to the salmon and complements the tanginess and smoothness of the lemon butter sauce. Another excellent dish is the crispy chicken ($12.99), a nut-crusted breast with demi-glacé. The chicken was moist and tender, and the sauce added a delightful sweetness to the mellow tones of chicken.

Not every dish at Dish earned the clean-plate award. All is promising when the grilled chicken ($11.99) arrives and you see it topped with a peach chowchow that looks as if you want to take the biggest helping the spoon can carry because it just looks so darn yummy. Unfortunately, all that awaits is a mouthful of too much Worcestershire sauce. Follow that up with chicken that is flavorless and dry, and overall the dish wins nothing but a big fat wish-you-had-ordered- something-else booby prize.

Considering the size of these dishes, there probably won't be too much room left for dessert, and that is not necessarily such a bad thing. The apple pie ($5.99) is tart and had more dough than apples, although it was topped with a delicious scoop of vanilla ice cream. The chocolate cookies and peppermint ice cream ($5.99) are another looks-good-but-that's-all dish. Served Napoleon style with alternating layers of ice cream and cookie, the cookies were dry next to the ice cream and tasted funny because they were too cold to have flavor. And one bite of the ice cream felt like eating a whole Altoids box. However, there is a worthy dessert on the menu: the French Silk ($5.99). It is a slice of a dark mousse and a white mousse topped with chocolate whipped cream. Not too heavy, smooth, and downright lip-smacking good. If you're not in a French Silk mood, a glass of wine or one of Dish's fabulous margaritas would be a better way of rounding out the meal.

It only opened a couple of months ago, but Dish runs as smoothly as if it had always been there. I guess that it's no surprise considering it is the brainchild of the team of chef Aaron Guest and owner Benjy Levit, the same headliner team responsible for Benjy's in the Village. From the chic looks of the new restaurant, it is already the place to be.

Dish takes the American vernacular menu and serves it up with a modern flare and touch of culture. Like the black-and-white color motif, Dish surprises customers with a comfortable menu, interesting atmosphere, generous helpings, superb waitstaff, and complimentary parking, all at affordable prices.

Dish, 2300 Westheimer. Lunch: Tue.-Sat., 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner: Tue.-Thurs., 5:45-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat., 5:45-11 p.m. Sunday brunch, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 713/528-2050.

A tapas-style taste of Houston

A note about our "tapas" dining reviews: You may have noticed that our advertisers are listed in our tapas section. Biased? You bet! By advertising in OutSmart, our advertisers are indicating that the business of the gay amp; lesbian community is important to them-and that's important to us at OutSmart. Of course, there are many other excellent and supportive restaurants out there, and we rotate mention of them into our tapas section.

Cabo
2187 Portsmouth (@ Greenbriar)
713/527-8226,br> 419 Travis (@ Prairie)
713/225-2060
It's loud, it's boisterous, it's almost always standing-room-only (unless you're there for a late lunch), and it's crawling with twentysomethings most weekend nights. But their killer margaritas, cilantro-infused fish tacos, whopping sandwiches with crispy plantain chips, and mouth-burning shrimp habanero tacos and quesadillas guarantee good eats along with its yuppie reputation.$

Churrascos
2055 Westheimer (@ S. Shepherd), 713/527-8300
9705 Westheimer (@ Gessner), 713/952-1988
1320 W. Bay Area Blvd. (Friendswood), 281/461-4100
The best thing that's happened to carnivorous Dixie since barbecue. The operative word here is beef-mouth-watering, succulent prime beef tenderloin basted with their signature chimichurri sauce (made from olive oil, fresh garlic, parsley, and spices) and char-grilled to order. Great grilled vegetables, empanadas, and seafood, too, but the piËce de résistance is the creamy tres leches dessert, which other restaurants have failed to imitate successfully. $$$

Dalat Vietnamese Bistro
3241 Southwest Fwy (Buffalo Spdwy amp; Edloe)
713/669-9375
A delightful little bistro with rare patio seating, right in Westpark's new restaurant row. Already known for its fresh chicken or pork vermicelli bowls, Vietnamese grilled fish hand wraps, and giant, perfectly textured calamari. With great food, no wait, and excellent service, go now before it rises to restaurant fame. $

JAGS
5120 Woodway (@ Sage)
713/621.4765
Like most of us, you've probably only experienced Jackson Hicks cuisine at holiday parties or other high-scale galas-or you've only dreamed about it. Don't fret. For a mere jaunt to the Decorative Center, you too can eat the food of the gods (for a price, that is). It's worth it at least once, just to say you did. Count on Hicks-style tortilla soup to be exactly what a good tortilla soup should be. Quirky salads, sandwiches, and entrees make choosing an effort, but nothing disappoints, especially the service (how could it, with such attentive waiters?). $$

Jalapenos
2702 Kirby Dr. (@ Westheimer)
713/524-1668
This River Oaks standby boasts spinach enchiladas so undeniably delicious that all others pale in comparison. They're an orchestration of taste and texture, with spinach just the right consistency-not grainy, mushy or stringy, but fusing with the cheese and cream sauce to create a texture all its own. Their ultimate secret, however, lies in the iced tea. It's always perfect, which tells you how much thought they put into things that others often find trivial. You'll always find a table, and their type-A waiters guarantee speedy, attentive service. $

La Madeleine
Multiple locations.
These multi-locale haunts are America's idealization of what a French café should be. Just the warm wooded décor, bottomless coffee and single-serving quiches and friands would have guaranteed success. But its tangy Caesar dressing, buttery croutons, tomato-basil soup and superb breads have earned such a devout following they can now be found in most Houston grocery stores. $

El Meson
2425 University (Rice Village)
713/522-9306
Somewhere between Pappasitos and a Florida Cuban dive, this Rice Village Cuban-Mexican is the darling of Medical Center diners. Regulars insist on the black bean soup, chunky guacamole (some say the best in the Southwest) and potent margaritas, and its low-key atmosphere make it a comfortable haven for families. We learned about yuca here (like a potato, only yummier), and have been a yuca devotee ever since. $

Mosquito Café
628 Fourteenth Street, Galveston
409/763-1010
This trendy, sleek little cafe offers a welcome break from the typical Galveston fried seafood scene. Gay owned and operated, the Mosquito offers fresh gourmet salads, sandwiches, and pasta, and has a beautiful patio dining area with oh-so-Southern iron furniture and umbrellas and lots of tropical island flowers. Located within walking distance of the Strand. $

Niko Niko's
2520 Montrose
713/528-1308
Dishes up authentic Greek food with Kalamata olives as salty as they get. Caters as much to vegetarians as meat lovers. Grab a chicken and spinach pita on the go or chat outdoors over a plate of humus. Bring your own ambiance-everything's plastic except the food. $

NEW! Pig Stand No. 7
2412 Washington Ave.
713/864-4041
Texas Pig Stands, Inc. is one of the oldest and most unusual restaurant chains in Texas. Located in the Old West End, Houston's Pig Stand No. 7 (there are eight across Texas, but only one remains in Houston) has served Houstonians since 1921. Pig Stands are famous for their chocolate shakes and Pig Sandwich Combo, a delicious barbecued pork sandwich served with french fries. Aurora, the Shirley MacLaine character in Larry McMurtrey novels, used to get cravings for a Pig Sandwich after an all-nighter; the Pig Stand on Washington even served as cover illustration for McMurtrey's Evening Star. Rivaling Baby Barnaby's on the weekend for gayest breakfast clientele, the Pig Stand's great diner breakfasts are served amid a charming "pig decor" by veteran battle-hardened waitresses who don't take any guff from anyone. A sign at the door reads "Arguing with a waitress is like wrestling with a pig in the mud, after a while you realize the pig enjoys it. $

Raven Grill
1916 Bissonnet
713/521-2027
This inconspicuous little dining spot is far more inviting than its Edgar Allen Poe-ish decor and name suggest. Its cozy, casual-chic ambience makes it an ideal neighborhood joint for after-work unwinding. While the food is a bland take on '90s Southwestern, the ubiquitous mesquite grilling-from moist fish entrees and portobello pesto mushrooms to angel food cake-will inspire you to experiment in your own backyard (with your grill: now get your mind out of the gutter). $$

Riva's
1117 Missouri St. (Montrose)
713/529-3450
In one of the most verdant and restful eatery atmospheres we know of, the brothers Silboyeh bring you Italian cuisine so unusually well seasoned you'll notice the pasta as well as the sauce. The simple dinner salad is alive with fresh vegetables and a tangy vinaigrette and a pleasant forecast of things to come. These men know herbs, and their fish dishes will make seafood converts out of diehard carnivores. And pastry chef Pierre kneads up some tasty little numbers. $$

Sabroso Grill
5510 Morningside (@ Times Blvd.)
713/942-9900
Price-wise it falls between Cabo and Churrascos, but in taste scores equal to both. The absolute best cilantro dressing in town, and you can order it on everything from the giant salads to the overstuffed tortas and tacos. Considering it's one of the few places you can walk in without a reservation or wait, this South American winner is clearly one of Rice Village's (and Houston's) best-kept secrets. $$

Star Pizza
2111 Norfolk (b/w Greenbriar amp; Shepherd)
713/523-0800
140 S. Heights Blvd. (@ Washington)
713/869-1241
Who needs Chicago? Like everything else, Texas can out-top and out-dough the country's most famous deep-dish pizzerias. Star's whole-wheat crust is light and chewy enough to lure even the un-health conscious, and Sugarbuster devotees can devour it with uninhibited gluttony. Thankfully, the salads are not an afterthought. So before inhaling a sausage, meatball, pepperoni, and extra cheese, you can clear your conscience with the cauliflower, tomato, broccoli, carrot, and sprout-infused garden salad.$

Taco Milagro
2555 Kirby Dr. (@ Westheimer)
713/522-1999
Café Express' answer to upscale Mexican fast food enjoyed at a slow, savory pace. Chalupas come stacked with almost every ingredient in the house; salads and enchiladas are exotic versions of their brethren Tex-Mex fare. A salsa bar spanning an entire wall satisfies tastes from mild to muy caliente. Sip a cool one (with salt) to the trickle of two flowing patio fountains. $

Thai Spice
5117 Kelvin (behind amp; above Antone's)
713/522-5100
Starve yourself for a day, then gorge on their expansive lunch buffet (only $7.95). Even for buffet skeptics, the four variations on egg rolls and spicy Pad Thai will make a believer out of you. If you're still in doubt, sample the beef curry and satays. You may have a wait, but the place is teeming with locals and natives vouching for its authenticity, so you know it'll be worth it. $$

Tony Ruppe's
3939 Montrose
713/852.0852
Standing in the former Quilted Toque location, Ruppe's California vineyard décor sets a tone of anticipation that escalates with one glance at his fusion menu. Nothing standard here; even the descriptions smack of flavorful humor. Everything from Wok-seared Hoisin Beef Summer Roll and Extreme Cuisines' Wild Half-Moon Bay Salmon to his Blazin' Summer Salad (with a delightful cilantro cream dressing), and Capellini Pasta Baked in Parchment is intricate but not overwhelming. Even the sides of Parmesan Polenta and balsamic vinaigrette-marinated vegetables are off the beaten path. From entrée to dessert, Ruppe is masterful at concealing unspeakable delicacies in parchment paper. $$$

Treebeards
315 Travis (@ Preston)
713/228-2622
1100 Louisiana (tunnel level @ Lamar)
713/752-2602
1117 Texas (in Christ Church Cathedral @ San Jacinto)
713/229-8248
But for the lack of Hurricanes, you may as well be whooping it up in New Orleans, so authentic is this Cajun-Creole favorite. The lunch-hour lines move remarkably fast, but we wouldn't even mind waiting for platters of red beans and rice (with sausage, cheese and green onions), jambalaya, crawfish etouffee, and green beans coated with lemon vinaigrette. In case you didn't know, the bottomless French bread basket is there to soak up the excess sauce. $

Urbana
3407 Montrose (@ Hawthorne)
713/521-1086
Stark minimalist decor, and a classy menu that offers everything Texan and beyond, with barbecue-grilled shrimp, Comal-seared tuna, richly marinated steaks, light pastas, ingenious salads, and interesting deviations on popular '90s sides like mashed potatoes and portobello mushrooms. $$

Van Loc
3010 Milam (@ Elgin)
713/528-6441
Down-to-earth Vietnamese food (with down-to-earth decor to match) draws natives, families, and downtown yuppies alike. The extensive menu offers fresh, reasonably priced traditional dishes such as vermicelli and bun, and you can even roll your own spring rolls (but unless you've honed that skill, let them do it for you). Their classically strong Vietnamese coffee will put hair on your chest. $

NEW! Ziggy's Healthy Grill
2320 W. Alabama
713/527-8588
Ziggy's was always healthy and wholesome, but now that the three new owners are doctors, you know you're in for a guiltless gourmet experience. Although the decor is still a bit on the utilitarian side, we seek out Ziggy's when we don't feel like being embarrassed about our urge to eat healthy-you can even ask to see their binders with the nutritional contents of all their dishes. Both healthy and yummy, they offer comfort food like lean meatloaf, sweet yam fries, and pecan acorn squash; we especially love Ziggy's baked veggie sandwich and buffalo burger. They've all sorts of wild-game burgers (known for being way lower in fat than regular cow beef)-even such exotica as ostrich, antelope, caribou, or kangaroo! Their latest offering is the Tuesday happy hour, with fresh blueberry margaritas and discounted appetizers. $

The cost guide reflects the average cost of dinner with one drink and tip. Deduct about 25 percent for average lunch prices.

$ $15 and below (inexpensive)
$$ $16 to $30 (moderate)
$$$ $31 to $50 (expensive)
$$$$ $51 or more (very expensive)