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DINEOUT
By
Joy Fajardo
Transylvanian Rhapsody
A
European oasis of gentility amidst the strange new world
of Midtown’s trendy townhomes
Charivari—French for “beautiful good mix”—and
that is the intent of chef Johann Schuster in his newly
opened restaurant, which offers a mixture of cuisines
from across the northern European continent. Hailing
from Transylvania, Romania, Schuster operated an award-winning
restaurant in the Black Forest prior to his trans-Atlantic
move. After several years of investigating, Schuster
and his partner, Maria Nopper, who owns the restaurant,
decided to relocate here—and Houston is all the
richer for it, as the couple serve up fare that keeps
the palate pleased and surprised.
Located on McGowen between Brazos and Bagby, Charivari
is located in the new Midtown shopping center that nestles
amidst all the trendy townhomes that seem to be springing
up in every available space in this hot area just south
of downtown. But the fancy restaurant defies its strip-mall
setting with an understated elegance (although some
might criticize it as a bit generic), palpable from
when one enters the mahogany door and soaks up the starched
white environment with its emphasis on simplicity. Window-lined
walls allow ample sunshine to warm the capacious restaurant.
Lonesome plants stand amidst the perfectly crisp linen,
polished silver, stacked white plates, and a zany silver
candleholder for flare. Despite the pallid paintings
on the wall, the only real splash of color comes from
the extremely well-stocked bar. Contained entirely within
one room, there is nonetheless a feeling of intimacy,
the “elevator” background music muted enough
for conversation, the tables arranged with ample breathing
room between, the waitstaff nothing if not attentive.
Your meal starts with complimentary carpe,a
caviar mousse to be spread on freshly baked bread while
you peruse the menu. A deliciously creamy concoction,
carpe pairs well with bread and is not at all overpoweringly
salty as one might imagine.
On first glance, the menu is written in a babel of languages
reflecting the several countries of origin of its offerings:
Italian, French, Romanian, and Hungarian. Fear not,
an explanation of each dish is written directly below.
Despite its far-flung aspirations, the menu remains
shy and offers “safe” exotic dishes: mostly
meats drizzled in some exciting sauce.
A splendid starter is the antipasto “Charivari”
appetizer ($6.95). Generous slices of tender prosciutto
draped over cantaloupe wedges are neighbors with vibrant
red bell peppers that are roasted and topped with mozzarella
and drizzled in pesto sauce. Thin slices of filet mignon
and artichokes complete the dish. The result is an experience
for the senses: Color assaults the eye, fragrance teases
the nose, and flavor thrills the tongue. Likewise compelling,
the Salad Bouquet with green asparagus ($10.50) could
easily stand alone as a meal. Pork tenderloin pieces
and healthy slices of avocado frame a Texas-size heap
of mixed greens, all touched with raspberry vinaigrette.
The greens were fresh and crisp, the avocado was of
the most alluring green, and the pork tenderloin was
a delicate counterpoint.
For the main course, opt for the Grilled Seafood Platter
for two ($38.95). Fresh salmon, tilapia, snapper, and
shrimp were cooked ever so tenderly and bathed in a
beautiful butter/wine sauce. A savory dish, the sauce
was light enough to compliment the fishes rather than
drown them out. Julienne vegetables are dolloped in
the middle for flavor and color. Not the most inventive
dish, but my friends gobbled it up before I could even
ask how they liked it (and they are not ones to swoon
over seafood). From the satisfying wine list, the Italian
wine Ecco Domani’s pinot grigio ($6.25 a glass)
paired well with this refined dish.
For the more carnivorous, the shredded veal “Zurich
style”($16.95) woos the senses with succulent and
tender pieces of veal bathed in a reduced sherry wine
sauce. Nearing a texture of spreadability, the veal
was rich with flavor and served in perfect one-bite
sizes, so no gnawing necessary. For this robust and
hearty dish, go for a pint of the German beer Spatten
($3.50).
If anything, stay for dessert.If there are several
people in your party, con them into getting multiple
samplings of these freshly made desserts just so you
can nab a taste. Call it cross-cultural research and
try an Italian, a German, and a French indulgence. The
Black Forest cake ($4.50) was most impressive with fresh
cherries hidden inside layers of chocolate cake. But
the top praise be saved for the mousse oux chocolate
noir e blanc($7.50)—in layman’s terms,
black and white chocolate mousse—I was almost moved
to a poem with its richness and decadence. Wonderfully
smooth and creamy, the mousse held a wonderfully deep
quality. Sandeman Founder’s Reserve ($6.50/glass)
was the perfect sweet port to compliment the chocolate.
A plate of the mousse and a glass of port are good enough
excuses for a visit.
(However, you might wish to avoid the tiramisu [$4.50].
Most European restaurants go out of their way to make
a signature tiramisu. As I’m a sucker for this
little extravagant item, I had to try Charivari’s.
True, it was light, creamy, and fluffy, but in the final
analysis, it really just came across as bland. I’d
advise you to skip this one and save yourself for their
other show-stopper desserts.)
Should a several-course meal be a bit too much for an
evening, Charivari does offer a Sunday brunch ($12.50/person).
It is the basic continental dining experience, and serves
up a spiked punch in martini glasses instead of mimosas.
Although the menu sports languages and cuisines not
typically encountered in your standard Houston eatery,
nonetheless Charivari is not for the high-adventure
dining crowd. Instead, it offers a safe dining experience
and the dishes will not scare the cautious. The cooking
is deft, even if on the tame side. And while some might
long for a bit more attitude in the atmosphere, others
will see potential in its restful ambiance. In this
reviewer’s opinion, a little more flare, color,
and gusto and Charivari has the capacity to become fabulous.That’s a gay term for “an exquisite experience.”
Charivari,
2521 Bagby (at McGowen in Midtown Plaza), 713/521-4574.
Monday–Friday, 11 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5–11
p.m.; Saturday, 5-11 p.m., Sunday 10:30 a.m.–2:30
p.m.
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