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A
tapas-style taste of Houston
A
note about our "tapas" dining reviews:
You may have noticed that our advertisers are
listed in our tapas section. Biased? Indeed we
are. By advertising in OutSmart, our advertisers
are indicating that the business of the gay &
lesbian community is important to themand
thats important to us at OutSmart.
Of course, there are many other excellent and
supportive restaurants out there, and we rotate
mention of them into our tapas section.
The
cost guide reflects the average cost of dinner
with one drink and tip. Deduct about 25 percent
for average lunch prices.
$ $15
and below (inexpensive)
$$ $16
to $30 (moderate)
$$$ $31
to $50 (expensive)
$$$$ $51
or more (very expensive)
Baba
Yega
2607
Grant St. (Missouri St.)
713/522-0042
A
Montrose institution. Sometimes were tempted
to eat here every day, its so homey and
healthy. We especially love Tuesday pasta night
($9.95 for the pasta du jour and a glass of wine),
their "Old Smokey" noshing platter of
salmon with accoutrements, their in-house sesame
dressing, Sunday brunch, and almost any of their
specials. If youre feeling outdoorsy, you
have the choice of their open patio under the
trees, the covered patio, or the porch facing
their secret garden. $
Baichs
Bar and Grille
2016
Main
713/650-8830
Baichs
(pronounced bay-chess) Bar and Grill is
housed on the ground floor of the 2016 Main Condo.
Serving uptown Southwest quisine in a downtown
atmosphere, this classy spot is the perfect location
for a quiet romantic dinner. For starters try
the corn crab chowder, a Baichs specialty
made with sweet yellow corn and fresh lump crabmeat.
There are pizzas, pasta, and a variety of sumptuous
entrees: my favorite being the Southwestern Pasta
consisting of chicken breast grilled to perfection,
black beans, and pico de gallo with a tomato-cilantro
cream sauce over fettucini. The art covering the
walls is by superstar artist and 2016 Main resident
Kermit Eisenhut. Live jazz on Friday nights. Entrance
on Main with valet parking. $$
Barnabys
Café
604
Fairview (Hopkins)
713/522-0106
Downhome
and healthy, what a combination. Our favorites
are their meatloaf (and those garlic mashed potatoes!),
their burgers (the big, cooked-to-order kind),
hickory-smoked "pink" chicken, and spinach
and cheese lasagna. Except for the burger, all
of these are big enough to split. And they serve
up the biggest glass of wine in Houston. The original
location is near and dear to our heart, although
you have to like funky, intimate, clattery atmosphere.
If you like a sleeker aura, maybe youd prefer
the new River Oaks location. $
Becks
Prime
Multiple
locations.
These
upscale burger joints have been touted as the
best in Houston, although many complain of inconsistent
hamburgers, which sometimes taste like ground
sirloin and other times like a prefab from Sams.
But theres no denying their unforgettable
fries, the thick, skin-on kind that can be cooked
extra crispy on request, nor their dessert-sized
mocha shakes. And the Alpine Chicken sandwichbasted
in hickory barbecue with sautéed onions,
mushrooms and Swiss cheesemakes you wish
you were bulimic so you could just keep on eating.
$
Benjys
2424
Dunstan (b/w Kelvin and Morningside)
713/522-7602
Lose
those distracting mirrors and youve got
pure orgasmic Asian fusion in a single-page menu.
Seared tuna wraps stuffed with goat cheese and
fresh greens are indescribably delicious and served
with thin, crispy veggie chips; inventive salads
will make you second-guess yourself, so bring
several companions and split everything. $$
Boulevard
Bistrot
4319
Montrose (just past Richmond)
713/524-6922
Houstons
culinary queen Monica Pope delves into culinary
wanderlust every time she mixes a drink with her
signature fruit-infused
alcohol. Her eclectic New American menu includes
a Mediterranean sampler plate and salad Nicoise
that youll dream about until your next visit.
Come for Sunday brunch, where funk meets haute
couture, and taste scones the size of Mars, fluffy
frittatas, and a dreamy cherry chocolate bread
pudding. $$
Cabo
2187
Portsmouth (@ Greenbriar)
713/527-8226
419
Travis (@ Prairie)
713/225-2060
Its
loud, its boisterous, its almost always
standing-room-only (unless youre there for
a late lunch), and its crawling with twentysomethings
most weekend nights. But their killer margaritas,
cilantro-infused fish tacos, whopping sandwiches
with crispy plantain chips, and mouth-burning
shrimp habanero tacos and quesadillas guarantee
good eats along with its yuppie reputation.$
Café
Compliqé
1525
Westheimer
713/529-5449
The
charming crew at Café Compliqé has
taken the old Pot Pie location near the Westheimer
curve and repainted it in wake-you-up spring neon
colors. This part-French, part-Mediterranean-influenced
sandwich-and-salad joint has a charming "lets
put on a show!" exuberance, and its menu
offers fresh and inventive items like the chicken
shawarma sandwich, and intriguing salads like
"légumes du France" (portabello
mushrooms and grilled eggplant with a lemon-herb
dressing), or the "al menga" (mango,
black beans, and pico de gallo with mango dressing).
The prices are good, the atmosphere fun, and the
youthful staff accommodating to special orders
(although beware some uneven patches, such as
the hidden $1 charge for a side green salad with
sandwich, or the funky primavera pizza, or the
way some of the salads are mega-meals, while others
are scarcely appetizer-sized). $
Café
Chino
6140
Village Pkwy (b/w Amherst & Times)
713/524-4433
600
Travis (tunnel level @ Texas)
713/223-1011
Houston
Chronicle food editor Ann Criswell was dead on
when she referred to Café Chinos
ethereal seared green beans as "a little slice
of heaven." Owner Eddie Chen prides himself on
his glass-enclosed kitchen and piping hot wok,
and he should: each dish is meticulously prepared,
and-try as they might-no other restaurant can
duplicate those famous green beans, or that wonderfully
textured cashew shrimp and chicken. And, contrary
to its Hunan label, Chen added sushi to his already
winning menu early last year. $$
Chapultepec
813
Richmond Ave. (@ Montrose)
713/522-2365
A
sentimental favorite, and the place where
the bold and beautiful can nurse their hangovers
24 hours a day. Get a bite of Tex-Mex at its bestno
lard, only the freshest meats and vegetables,
and the nicest owners youll ever meet. Francisco
Valle and his wife Thelma came across the Mexican
border with four quarters and created a Richmond
haven thats stood in its original spot for
more than 25 years. Olé. $
Cheesecake
Factory
5015
Westheimer (in the Galleria)
713/840-0600
Get
over the two-hour wait. With portions this big,
youll need the time to wander the Galleria
and work up an appetite. The spiral bound menu
boasts 22 pages of eclectic eats, but you may
as well stop at the appetizers and save the rest
for another trip. Make an entire meal out of the
avocado eggrolls, brie and avocado melt, corn
cakes, or Thai lettuce wraps, and top it off with
their signature White Chocolate Raspberry Truffle
cheesecake. Then head to the nearest heart center.
$$
Chianti
1515
South Post Oak Lane
713/840-0303
Sequestered
in a little pocket of Tanglewood, this Italian
sleeper exudes quaintfrom the streamlined
rustic Italian food to its sunken greenhouse of
a dining room. Befitting its setting, the menu
offers classic garden-variety Italian, except
for the extraordinary stuffed artichoke, Insalata
Caprese, and a spinach- and ricotta-stuffed ravioli
lounging in a butter-sage pool with a simplicity
thats almost startling. Its available
for private parties in arguably the most picturesque
setting in Houston (picturesque save for the ultra-hip
martini bar tacked on to its western hip). $$
Churrascos
2055
Westheimer (@ S. Shepherd), 713/527-8300; 9705
Westheimer (@ Gessner), 713/952-1988; 1320 W.
Bay Area Blvd. (Friendswood), 281/461-4100
The
best thing thats happened to carnivorous
Dixie since barbecue. The operative word here
is beefmouth-watering, succulent prime beef
tenderloin basted with their signature chimichurri
sauce (made from olive oil, fresh garlic, parsley,
and spices) and char-grilled to order. Great grilled
vegetables, empanadas, and seafood, too, but the
pièce de résistance is the creamy
tres leches dessert, which other restaurants have
failed to imitate successfully. $$$
Colinas
Italian Cafe
3835
Richmond Ave. (@ Weslayan)
713/621-8844
2400
Times Blvd. (Rice Village)
713/365-9497
12311
Kingsride
With
its reliable Italian food, unpretentious feel,
and BYO wine option (with no corking fee), Houston
yuppies flock to these neighborhood locations.
And as long as you dont expect haute cuisine,
youll be perfectly content. Order the pizza
Marguerite and one of the antipasto salads and
you may even border on exhilaration. $
Crostini
2411
S. Shepherd
713/524-8558
Although
Chef Chai Rapesak is Thai, he opened Crostini
five years ago because he loved pasta, and his
inventive "contemporty Italian" dishes
are most delicately intriguing. Taking fresh Thai
herbs he creates such dishes as lemongrass pasta,
salmon griglia brushed with ginger balsamic vinegar,
and papaya salad in a spicy lime vinaigrette with
feta cheese. Or try the popular appetizer Shrimp
Crostini, stuffed with crabmeat and topped with
sliced portobello mushroom, mozzarella and sweet
jalapeno sauce. All served in the sedate open
room with its facade of French doors curving along
Shepherd, brick-colored walls, reddish wood chairs
and jazz in the background. $$
Daily
Review
3412
West Lamar (@ Dunlavy)
713/520-9217
This
intimate cafe hides in a residential neighbourhood,
but is well worth finding. They serve contemporary
American food in a casual atmosphere. Two must-trys
are Tony's Southern Fried Chicken (served only
on Wednesday)s and the delicious organic 100 percent
Hereford beef. When the weather permits try sitting
in their shaded patio overlooking the garden.
Great beer list. $$
Dalat
Vietnamese Bistro
3241
Southwest Fwy (Buffalo Spdwy & Edloe)
713/669-9375
A
delightful little bistro with rare patio seating,
right in Westparks new restaurant row. Already
known for its fresh chicken or pork vermicelli
bowls, Vietnamese grilled fish hand wraps, and
giant, perfectly textured calamari. With great
food, no wait, and excellent service, go now before
it rises to restaurant fame. $
Dessert
Gallery
3200
Kirby Drive (behind Café Express)
713/522-9999
A
charming haven for dessert addicts, where Sugarbusters
devotees and the calorie-challenged enter at their
own risk. Convince your dentist to go public,
buy up as many shares as you can afford, and inform
the public of this after-dinner sweet fest. Put
more clearly, their chocolate-dipped cookies make
Mrs. Fields taste store-bought. $
Dish
2300
Westheimer
713/528-2050
Sleek
and stylish, Dish offers a refined American menu
at fabulous prices. Sister restaurant of Benjys
in the Village, Dish continues in chef/owner Aaron
Guests commitment to a singular dinning
experience at affordable prices. For starters,
try the arugula salad, or the fried goat cheese
and wild mushrooms turnovers. Our pork chop and
salmon entrees had the entire table vying for
first dibs on our plate. More than just the flavor
of the month, this is the place to see and be
seen. $$
Divino
1830
West Alabama
713/807-1123
There
is a lot of passion in this father-son team, both
self-taught experts in the two themes at divino:
"Italian restaurant" and "wine
bar." The wine list is great for sampling
with the two-ounce tastes, and the menu is simple
and good. The pasta dishes come in two sizes and
the larger portion is definitely a meal's worth.
For entrees there is chicken, pork, beef, and
fish, which come with a variety of vegetable and
grain accompaniments. $$
Droubi
Brothers Mediterranean
648
Polk Street
713/651-9377
You
wont get excited over the cafeteria-like
surroundingsits the very authentic
Eastern-Mediterranean food that wins one over.
If you work downtown, want a quick and satisfying
spot for lunch, and your co-workers dont
mind you having garlic breath, then you must try
this place. Pita sandwiches are fast, cheap, and
good. For vegetarians, try the one filled with
falafel, tomatoes, onions, pickles and tahini,
with a small house salad at $3.95. Cant
decide, try the sampler platter, with two dolmas
(grape leaves stuffed with ground beef and rice),
tabouli salad, a kibby (its like a very
flavorful deep fried meat ball), hummus, and baba
ghanouj with warm pita bread for dipping. $
Eatzis
Market & Bakery
1702
Post Oak Blvd. (@ San Felipe)
713/629-6003
Its
Alice in Wonderland myriad of choices (approximately
1,500) is a tad overzealous, but the presentation
of this gourmand deli take-out is so stunning
youll be drooling within minutes. Everything
baked is gorgeous and crusty, and the glass-enclosed
salads, sides, and entrees span the globe. Take
home an array of prepared dishesasparagus,
couscous, stuffed filet mignon wraps, a half-dozen
or more chicken salads, several dozen pasta salads,
just to give you a tasteand your guests
will think you slaved for hours. Of course, all
this comes with a price tag, so bring your Amex
and prepare yourself for a food-filled obstacle
course. $
Estancia
Grill
414
West Gray
713/807-1111
An
open grill is the focal point of the kitchen at
this casual upscale eatery. Already known for
its Argentinian dishes, the new menu features
cuisine from all of the Americas including Mexico
and other Latin American countries. The bar menu
serves up mouth-watering tapas. Also served are
pastas, steaks and seafood entrees along with
a variety of soups, salads and sandwiches all
of which reflect the bold flavors of South America.
Best of all, chef Greg Webb promises to dish up
some of his favorite items, most notably the Opal
Duckling. The atmosphere sparkles with simple
elegance and the service is attentive. $$
Fabios
Italian Bar & Grill
212
Westheimer
713/528-4212
New
on the Montrose scene, Fabios is the quintessential
romantic Italian restaurant, from the insalate
to the dolce (such as the chocolate
mousse cake, which is rich, fresh, and deliciously
decadent). Chef Pepe Viliz, a native of Ecuador,
brings his fresh herbs and homemade pasta to enliven
classic fare such as capelli di angeli primavera
and costoletta paillard. $$
Farrago
World Cuisine
318
Gray (at Bagby)
713/523-6404
Farrago
is nestled in the corner of a townhouse complex
in the Midtown area with free parking in the building,
accessible from Bagby. The name, translated from
several Latin-based languages, means an "unusual
mixture." They serve interesting versions
of familiar foods, like curried mussels, barley
risotto, and Cajun benedict. Check out especially
their Sunday brunch with bottomless mimosas and
write-home-about pancakes $$
Golden
Room
1209
Montrose (@ Dallas)
713/524-9614
True
to its name, this gold-gilded Thai-Chinese will
have you rubbing elbows with the entire roomliterally.
Some find it a bit too intimate for private conversation,
but the chicken wraps, spicy curries, and flavorful
soups are meant for sharing, so dig in. Just dont
burn your tongue. $$
Gugenheims
Delicatessen
1708
Post Oak Blvd. (@ San Felipe)
713/622-2773
Open
wide and you still wont be able to close
your mouth around one of these famous triple stackers.
Where else but this New York clone can you order
a beef brisket "jawbreaker" and have
enough left over for the next two nights? Giant
matzo balls, crispy potato pancakes served with
dollops of sour cream and apple sauce, cheese-filled
blintzes, and the flakiest knishes to rival either
of those other coasts. Knishes, blintzes, you
ask? Dont ask. Just eat! $
Hobbit
Cafe
2243
Richmond (@ Portsmouth)
713/526-5460
Its
open again and were happy: because this
locale actually provides parking. Enter Houstons
beloved Tolkien sanctuary and revel in its prolific
menu, featuring Fatty Lumpkin and Bilbo the Magnificent
(theyre sandwiches, but unlike any youve
ever experienced). While it tends to cater to
vegetarian tastes, even the Birkenstock-deprived
will appreciate the sprawling deck and heaping
servings. And contrary to its herbivorous reputation,
it offers meat beyond the token veggie burgers-such
as real bacon cheeseburgers, tuna salad and jerk
chicken. Both the "classic" and regular sandwiches
are huge, so you may as well have them doggy bag
half before they serve it. The owner actually
waits tables, so you know your voice counts. $
JAGS
5120
Woodway (@ Sage)
713/621.4765
Like
most of us, youve probably only experienced
Jackson Hicks cuisine at holiday parties or other
high-scale galasor youve only dreamed
about it. Dont fret. For a mere jaunt to
the Decorative Center, you too can eat the food
of the gods (for a price, that is). Its
worth it at least once, just to say you did. Count
on Hicks-style tortilla soup to be exactly what
a good tortilla soup should be. Quirky salads,
sandwiches, and entrees make choosing an effort,
but nothing disappoints, especially the service
(how could it, with such attentive waiters?).
$$
Jalapenos
2702
Kirby Dr. (@ Westheimer)
713/524-1668
This
River Oaks standby boasts spinach enchiladas so
undeniably delicious that all others pale in comparison.
Theyre an orchestration of taste and texture,
with spinach just the right consistencynot
grainy, mushy or stringy, but fusing with the
cheese and cream sauce to create a texture all
its own. Their ultimate secret, however, lies
in the iced tea. Its always perfect, which
tells you how much thought they put into things
that others often find trivial. Youll always
find a table, and their type-A waiters guarantee
speedy, attentive service. $
Java
Java
911
11th Street
713/880-5282
A
comfortable neighborhood restaurant that exemplifies
the homey Heights, serving breakfast, lunch, and
weekend dinner specials: Thursday is chicken fried
steak night, Friday is seafood, and Saturday is
prime rib. With a mural outside and the purple
medley of painted plaster walls and rustic cement
floors, owner Matt Parson has created a cozy "just
settle yourself in" atmosphere. The menu
offers healthy sandwichs, burgers, and pastas,
and a salad bar worth visiting. A new covered
patio is filled with tropical plants "from
the yards of everybody who works here," says
longtime waiter Richard. "Were all
plant freaks and I said it doesnt make sense
to go spend a lot of money on plants when we all
have more than we know what to do with."
$
Kams
4500
Montrose Blvd.
713/529-5057
Located
right at the juncture of where Montrose turns
into the museum district, we like to go to Kams
when were in the mood for upscale Chinese
food in an elegant, quiet, yet unpretentious,
atmosphere. The white tablecloths, genial waiters,
and view of Montrose out of Kams storefront
windows are all oddly soothing. Although some
complain that Kams cuisine is rather Americanized,
we are longtime fans of their sesame chicken,
Singapore vermicelli, wrinkly sautéed green
beans, and crispy hot and sour whole fish. $$
Katz
Bar & Deli
616
Westheimer @ Crocker St.
713/521-3838
This
is the kind of place where you go to stuff your
face with food that you know is bad for you but
tastes yummy. The portions are outrageous. For
a huge fix on protein try the Brooklyn patty melt,
two pieces of Jewish rye bread are grilled and
filled with a half-pound U.S. prime Angus beef
patty, melted American cheese, sautéed
onions, and mushrooms. Deli food round the clockits
open 24-7. $
Lai
Lai Dumpling House
9262
Bellaire Blvd.
713/271-0080
The
best dive on Bellaire, not to mention the best
Chinese for the least bucks. No kiddinghow
about feeding a group of 12 for under $50? Soothe
your soul with the Tofu Hot Pot, chock full o
steaming fresh vegetables and firm chunks of tofu.
Or the pork- and veggie-filled dumplings, or the
green onion pancakes, or just about anything on
their menu. Top off with a fortune cookie and
youre set till your next craving. $
Last
Concert Cafe
1403
Nance St.
713/226-8563
Dishing
up classic Tex-Mex in the warehouse district since
1952, the Last Concert is the original "insiders"
joint: Oftentimes you have to knock on their red
curtained door for entry, and in Larry McMurtreys
Terms of Endearment, Aurora (the Shirley
MacLaine character) takes a date here for a late-night
flirtation. (Although a rat is mentioned nibbling
a tortilla in the corner of the patio in the book,
I think Larry was exaggerating for effect.) Dive
aficionados will appreciate the funky atmosphere
with red leatherette booths. The foods good
hearty fare. Were especially fans of the
potato-with-green-chili soup. $
Latina
Café
1972
Fairview
713/521-2611
An
authentic repository of soul-satisfying Cuban
cooking. Dishing out plaintains of two varieties,
beans in three colrs (black, red, and green),
exquisite seafood creoles, ropa vieja (literally
"old clothes" because thats what
this shredded beef looks like), Latina Café
has been a Montrose standby for forever, it seems.
Their intimate non-fussy decor has the feel of
Continental sophistication to me, an informal
place where one can just relax with old friends
over a glass of wine or a demi-tasse of Cuban
coffee, in a cup as small as a babys fist,
yet as strong as a gym rat, and as dark as top
soil. $
Lobo
Bookshop & Café
3939
Montrose
713/522-5156
A
tasty little neighborhood sandwich shop/bookstore
for the adult in everyone. The pristine sandwich
menu (lunch only) features tasty turkey, chicken,
and roast beef sandwichessimple, fresh,
and filling. Add chips, a drink, and a touch of
voyeurism and youve got a sensual meal.
Bring a friend or a good book, or peruse the store
for some interesting reading. If anything, it
will whet your appetite. $
La
Madeleine
Multiple
locations.
These
multi-locale haunts are Americas idealization
of what a French café should be. Just the
warm wooded décor, bottomless coffee and
single-serving quiches and friands would have
guaranteed success. But its tangy Caesar dressing,
buttery croutons, tomato-basil soup and superb
breads have earned such a devout following they
can now be found in most Houston grocery stores.
$
Marks
1658
Westheimer
713/523-3800
Walk
into this renovated church and turn your eyes
upward to the heavenly painted ceiling. The interior
is gorgeous, warm and elegant, which is probably
why it attracts such a snobby crowd. No matterignore
them and enjoy the sumptuous surroundings and
exquisitely prepared meals by owner/chef Mark
Cox (formally executive chef at Tonys).
The style is gourmet American with strong international
influences on a rotating menu including fresh
fish, veal, lamb and outrageous desserts. $$$
El
Meson
2425
University (Rice Village)
713/522-9306
Somewhere
between Pappasitos and a Florida Cuban dive, this
Rice Village Cuban-Mexican is the darling of Medical
Center diners. Regulars insist on the black bean
soup, chunky guacamole (some say the best in the
Southwest) and potent margaritas, and its low-key
atmosphere make it a comfortable haven for families.
We learned about yuca here (like a potato, only
yummier), and have been a yuca devotee ever since.
$
Mi
Luna Tapas Restaurant & Bar
2441
University (in Rice Village)
713/520-5025
A
lively Spanish restaurant that gets livelier as
the night progresses. Choose from the long lists
of cold and hot tapas that are best shared with
a group along with a pitcher of Sangria. Also
serving many full course Spanish offerings including
what they claim is the "best paella in town."
Open for lunch and dinner with a Sunday buffet
brunch. Happy hour is Mon.Fri., 47pm,
with $2 tapas, margaritas, sangria, and domestic
beer. $$
Mings
2703
Montrose
713/529-7888
The
friendly fast-food Chinese eatery in the heart
of the Montrose. Serving up stir-fries, crispy
green beans, and killer egg rolls, Mings
has taken on landmark status in only four years
as a late-night chopstick feast on their patio
under the stars has become an essential part of
the Montrose repertoire. Their staff always cheerful
and welcoming, Mings has endeared itself
to the communityand many a GLBT organization
has benefited from their donations. $
Miss
Saigon Café
5503
Kelvin (in the Rice Village)
713/942-0108
Walking
into the Miss Saigon Café out of the bustling
Village is like finding a restful glade in a busy
public park. Many of the dishes interestingly
combine cold with hot, with raw items providing
an extra intensity of flavor. The summer rolls,
Vietnamese egg rolls, or spring rolls are all
excellent appetizers. For lunch try a bowl of
vermicelli: precooked, cold rice noodles, fresh
bean sprouts, shredded lettuce, cucumbers, and
carrots are the base ingredients, then you choose
a grilled item (pork, beef, chicken, egg roll,
tofu, or shrimp) to top the chilliness. The caramel
salmon hot pot makes for a most satisfying dinner.
$$
Mo
Mong
1201
Westheimer (behind Hollywood Video)
713/524-5664
Sleek
and urban, Mo Mong presents Vietnamese fusion
in the heart of the Montroseand you dont
get closer to Montroses heart than the former
backstage quarters of the Tower Theatre. Smoothly
managed and decorated by Viet Hoang, whose father
is the owner, the narrow space has a dream-like
sophistication, and often doubles as art gallery
for local artists. And the food is intriguingly
delicious. We love the wasabi
crab cakes, the
humongous spring rolls, the banh xeo Vietnamese
crepe, and the worlds of wonderful noodles. And
to their famous Wednesday half-price martini night,
Mo Mong has now added Sake Monday, with 25 brands
of sake available, from $1 sake shots, to $3.75
sake cocktails. $$
Mosquito
Café
628
Fourteenth Street, Galveston
409/763-1010
This
trendy, sleek little cafe offers a welcome break
from the typical Galveston fried seafood scene.
Gay owned and operated, the Mosquito offers fresh
gourmet salads, sandwiches, and pasta, and has
a beautiful patio dining area with oh-so-Southern
iron furniture and umbrellas and lots of tropical
island flowers. Located within walking distance
of the Strand. $
Niko
Nikos
2520
Montrose
713/528-1308
Serving
good hearty Greek food since 1977, Niko Nikos
is the crossroads of Montrose, where you can see
just about everybody pass through on a Saturday
night, from Urban Animals, to hungry Pacific Streeters,
to white-haired Unitarians. As hearty as Zorba
the Greek, every item in the house is full of
flavor, from the mousaka to the souvlaki. $
Oscars
Creamery
1201
Westheimer
713/521-1808
Cyber-space
and dairy. Who knew what a wonderful combination
it would make? The folks at Oscars Creamery,
thats who. Priding themselves on the best
damn vanilla ice cream (even calling it "vanilla"
seems a shame) this side of Brenham, Oscars
also boosts a wide and ever-changing variety of
specialty flavors to tease, tantalize, and thrill
your palate. After recently adding a internet
bar, you can order up a double waffle cone of
mocha fudge coffee ripple and go online to see
where, exactly, they find the mocha fudge coffee
cows it comes from. $
Paulies
1834
Westheimer
713/807-7271
Step
into a little bit of nouveau Continental Italian
and plan on settling in until someone kicks you
out. After you indulge in fresh panini sandwiches-stuffed
with everything from pork tenderloin, to grilled
tuna with wasabi mayo, to mozzarella, roasted
tomato, and avocado-youll want to linger
over a steaming cappuccino, nibble on something
flaky from their in-store bakery, and hang out
until dinner time to sample the equally appealing
entrees. $-$$
Pig
Stand No. 7
2412
Washington Ave.
713/864-4041
Texas
Pig Stands, Inc. is one of the oldest and most
unusual restaurant chains in Texas. Located in
the Old West End, Houstons Pig Stand No.
7 (there are eight across Texas, but only one
remains in Houston) has served Houstonians since
1921. Pig Stands are famous for their chocolate
shakes and Pig Sandwich Combo, a delicious barbecued
pork sandwich served with french fries. Aurora,
the Shirley MacLaine character in Larry McMurtrey
novels, used to get cravings for a Pig Sandwich
after an all-nighter; the Pig Stand on Washington
even served as cover illustration for McMurtreys
Evening Star. Rivaling Baby Barnabys
on the weekend for gayest breakfast clientele,
the Pig Stands great diner breakfasts are
served amid a charming "pig decor" by
veteran battle-hardened waitresses who dont
take any guff from anyone. A sign at the door
reads "Arguing with a waitress is like wrestling
with a pig in the mud, after a while you realize
the pig enjoys it. $
Pot
Pie Pizzeria
2207
Richmond, 713/526-1702
Who
needs eggs when you can eat their baked potato
pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner? This gay-owned
and operated neighborhood joint will feed you
till you bust. Even better, the nightly all-you-can-eat
spaghetti and outdoor patio makes your gorge-fest
cheap and picturesque. Perfectly boring normal
folks are welcomed with open arms despite its
student and bohemian clientele. $
Prego
2520
Amherst (in the Rice Village)
713/529-2420
Enjoy
the intimate surroundings either at the bar sipping
on a glass of Chardonnay from their award-winning
wine list or at one of the cozy booths or tables.
The food is exceptional, the atmosphere casual.
They serve crunchy thin-crust pizzas from their
brick oven, delicious pasta dishes, and tasty
grilled items that have been cooked over a wood
burning fire. For a perfect meal start with Caesar
salad and a glass of J. Lohr, then move to veal
meatball lasagna, probably more wine, and finish
with the fresh berry cup. $$
Ragin
Cajun
4302
Richmond
713/623-6321
9600
Westheimer (at Gessner)
832/251-7171
Houstons
authentic source of crawfish, red beans and rice,
and anything youd eat with tabasco. We love
their fried oysters. This family business (Frank
Messina and Luke Mandola) is busy just about anytime
theyre open. And now, after more than 20
years as a Houston institution at their atmospheric
Richmond location, they opened a new restaurant
in earlier this year. $
Raven
Grill
1916
Bissonnet
713/521-2027
This
inconspicuous little dining spot is far more inviting
than its Edgar Allen Poe-ish decor and name suggest.
Its cozy, casual-chic ambience makes it an ideal
neighborhood joint for after-work unwinding. While
the food is a bland take on 90s Southwestern,
the ubiquitous mesquite grilling-from moist fish
entrees and portobello pesto mushrooms to angel
food cake-will inspire you to experiment in your
own backyard (with your grill: now get your mind
out of the gutter). $$
Rickshaw
2810
Westheimer
713/942-7272
Multiple
Asian cuisines fuse with continental to make a
worldly hot pot. The décor is funky and
lively, the food an interesting mix of Chinese,
Japanese, Thai and European. East/west chicken
wraps, French wontons, Chicken curry Caesar salad,
Marinated Rickshaw ribeye, stand beside more familiar
items on the menu like pad Thai and kung pow chicken.
$$
Rivas
1117
Missouri St. (Montrose)
713-529-3450
In
one of the most verdant and restful eatery atmospheres
we know of, the brothers Silboyeh bring you Italian
cuisine so unusually well seasoned youll
notice the pasta as well as the sauce. The simple
dinner salad is alive with fresh vegetables and
a tangy vinaigrette and a pleasant forecast of
things to come. These men know herbs, and their
fish dishes will make seafood converts out of
diehard carnivores. And pastry chef Pierre kneads
up some tasty little numbers. $$
River
Café
3615
Montrose
713/529-0088
Intimate
weekend hangout with great patio dining. Youll
spot every car down Montrose. Broad menu serving
nouveau American dishes. Accessible and friendly.
If youre not hungry, try the bar. $$
Sabroso
Grill
5510
Morningside (@ Times Blvd.)
713/942-9900
Price-wise
it falls between Cabo and Churrascos, but in taste
scores equal to both. The absolute best cilantro
dressing in town, and you can order it on everything
from the giant salads to the overstuffed tortas
and tacos. Considering its one of the few
places you can walk in without a reservation or
wait, this South American winner is clearly one
of Rice Villages (and Houstons) best-kept
secrets. $$
Sake
Lounge
500
Texas Ave. (in Bayou Place)
713/228-7253
Very
hip and modern interior with lot of angles and
the color purple makes for a fun environment.
The separate bar area provides for an ideal stop
after work, and 47 p.m., enjoy their happy
hour drink and food specials. The open-air patio
is a great spot to people-watch while enjoying
the delicious Japanese food. Your best bet is
to stick with the incredibly fresh sushi, but
they have a full menu with noodle soups, fried
fish, grilled steaks, veggies, and much more.
Combine dinner with a movie at the Angelika Film
Theatre, or a show at the Aerial or Alley Theatres
for a perfect downtown evening. $$
Sawadee
6719
Weslayan (@ Bellaire Blvd.)
713/666.7872
The
name alone will trigger a Pavlovian response once
youve tried this quaint West U. hideaway.
Everything on the Thai menu is delicious, but
some dishes are so beyond description youll
be hard pressed to stray once youve found
your favorites. Mine include the beef or chicken
with basil and peppers as well as the lemongrass
coconut soup. Then again, the curried chicken
is just spicy enough to induce little beads of
sweat on my forehead, and the spring rolls, well...excuse
me while I drool. $$
Solero
910
Prairie
713/227-2665
If
you're in the mood for a variety of tastes, then
grab some friends and head to Solero in the downtown
Market Square Historic District. My compliments
to Arturo Boada, chef and part owner of Solero,
for the best ceviche that I have ever tasted outside
of South America. The menu is an international
collection of flavors served in tapas-sized or
dinner portions. $$
Sonoma
1415
California St.
713/522-7066
Wildly
eclectic menu features steak pasta, Osso Bucco,
and crispy crab cakes (heavy crab with minimal
cake), bursting with fun and flavor. Very reasonable,
and a great party atmosphere. For their Sunday
brunch and afternoon T-Dance (on their patio,
with its exhilerating wide-open view of downtown),
owner Jay Allen makes the ultimate host. $$
Star
Pizza
2111
Norfolk (b/w Greenbriar & Shepherd)
713/523-0800
140
S. Heights Blvd. (@ Washington)
713/869-1241
Who
needs Chicago? Like everything else, Texas can
out-top and out-dough the countrys most
famous deep-dish pizzerias. Stars whole-wheat
crust is light and chewy enough to lure even the
un-health conscious, and Sugarbuster devotees
can devour it with uninhibited gluttony. Thankfully,
the salads are not an afterthought. So before
inhaling a sausage, meatball, pepperoni, and extra
cheese, you can clear your conscience with the
cauliflower, tomato, broccoli, carrot, and sprout-infused
garden salad.$
Stone
Mill Bakers (lunch only)
3191
W. Holcombe Blvd.
713/349-0077
2518
Kirby Dr.
713/524-6600
Yeah,
they feature exquisite breads and giant cinnamon
rolls, but dont get hung up on the name
or youll miss some amazing sandwiches. How
about turkey on cranberry pecan bread, or curried
chicken on thick, chewy Dakota bread, or vegetarian
on jalapeño cheese bread? Call ahead for
snappy lunch boxes filled with the gourmet sandwich
of your choice, chips or fruit, and a cookie the
size of a Frisbee (the chocolate chocolate chips
are heavenly). $
La
Strada
322
Westheimer (@ Taft)
713/523-10145161
San Felipe (@ Sage)
713-850-9999
Yes,
they do more than Sunday brunch. Its called
award-winning cuisine and matching wine list available
to the entire population seven days a week. Two
hip locations differ in style and mood, but not
in the yummy, unconventional pastas or reliable
bellinis. $$
Taco
Milagro
2555
Kirby Dr. (@ Westheimer)
713/522-1999
Café
Express answer to upscale Mexican fast food
enjoyed at a slow, savory pace. Chalupas come
stacked with almost every ingredient in the house;
salads and enchiladas are exotic versions of their
brethren Tex-Mex fare. A salsa bar spanning an
entire wall satisfies tastes from mild to muy
caliente. Sip a cool one (with salt) to the trickle
of two flowing patio fountains. $
Thai
Spice
5117
Kelvin (behind & above Antones)
713/522-5100
Starve
yourself for a day, then gorge on their expansive
lunch buffet (only $7.95). Even for buffet skeptics,
the four variations on egg rolls and spicy Pad
Thai will make a believer out of you. If youre
still in doubt, sample the beef curry and satays.
You may have a wait, but the place is teeming
with locals and natives vouching for its authenticity,
so you know itll be worth it. $$
This
Is It
207
W. Gray (@ Bagby)
713/659.1608
No
other place dishes up soul food like this hearty
Fourth Ward spot. Just one foot in the door, and
youll smell pork chops and collard greens
like mama still makes. The cornbread is the sweetest,
moistest that Houston has to offer. For the uninitiated,
display just a hint of down home naiveté
to the gals behind the steam table and theyll
give you the skinny on each dish. $
Tony
Ruppes
3939
Montrose
713/852.0852
Standing
in the former Quilted Toque location, Ruppes
California vineyard décor sets a tone of
anticipation that escalates with one glance at
his fusion menu. Nothing standard here; even the
descriptions smack of flavorful humor. Everything
from Wok-seared Hoisin Beef Summer Roll and Extreme
Cuisines Wild Half-Moon Bay Salmon to his
Blazin Summer Salad (with a delightful cilantro
cream dressing), and Capellini Pasta Baked in
Parchment is intricate but not overwhelming. Even
the sides of Parmesan Polenta and balsamic vinaigrette-marinated
vegetables are off the beaten path. From entrée
to dessert, Ruppe is masterful at concealing unspeakable
delicacies in parchment paper. $$$
Treebeards
315
Travis (@ Preston)
713/228-2622
1100
Louisiana (tunnel level @ Lamar)
713/752-2602
1117
Texas (in Christ Church Cathedral @ San Jacinto)
713/229-8248
But
for the lack of Hurricanes, you may as well be
whooping it up in New Orleans, so authentic is
this Cajun-Creole favorite. The lunch-hour lines
move remarkably fast, but we wouldnt even
mind waiting for platters of red beans and rice
(with sausage, cheese and green onions), jambalaya,
crawfish etouffee, and green beans coated with
lemon vinaigrette. In case you didnt know,
the bottomless French bread basket is there to
soak up the excess sauce. $
Two
Rows Restaurant & Brewery
2400
University (in the Village Arcade, second floor)
713/529-2739
Any
brewery is bound to get a bad rap, but this one
deserves kudos for its interesting and varied
menu (it even offers health-conscious selections,
so phooey on the brew pub non-believer). Refreshingly,
theres barely a fried potato in the house.
Instead, youll find balsamic-marinated veggies,
tasty pizzas, bountiful salads and beer-infused
muffins accompanied by yummy honey spiked butter.
Non-beer drinkers should at least try the homemade
root beer or, better yet, in a float. $
Urbana
3407
Montrose (@ Hawthorne)
713/521-1086
Sleek
minimalist decor, and a classy menu that offers
everything Texan and beyond, with barbecue-grilled
shrimp, Comal-seared tuna, richly marinated steaks,
light pastas, ingenious salads, and interesting
deviations on popular 90s sides like mashed
potatoes and portobello mushrooms. $$
Van
Loc
3010
Milam (@ Elgin)
713/528-6441
Down-to-earth
Vietnamese food (with down-to-earth decor to match)
draws natives, families, and downtown yuppies
alike. The extensive menu offers fresh, reasonably
priced traditional dishes such as vermicelli and
bun, and you can even roll your own spring rolls
(but unless youve honed that skill, let
them do it for you). Their classically strong
Vietnamese coffee will put hair on your chest.
$
Vincents
2701
W. Dallas
713/528-4313
Rotisserie
me a chicken, baby. Next door to its brother restaurant,
Ninos, Vincents gets you great Italian/American
food and wine so reasonable youll want to
shout (and youll have to if you want to
be heard). Cozier in decor than Ninos, and
the green beans are like Café Chino Italian
style. $$
Ziggys
Healthy Grill
2320
W. Alabama
713/527-8588
Ziggys
was always healthy and wholesome, but now that
the three new owners are doctors, you know youre
in for a guiltless gourmet experience. Although
the decor is still a bit on the utilitarian side,
we seek out Ziggys when we dont feel
like being embarrassed about our urge to eat healthyyou
can even ask to see their binders with the nutritional
contents of all their dishes. Both healthy and
yummy, they offer comfort food like lean meatloaf,
sweet yam fries, and pecan acorn squash; we especially
love Ziggys baked veggie sandwich and buffalo
burger. Theyve all sorts of wild game burgers
(known for being way lower in fat than regular
cow beef)even such exotica as ostrich, antelope,
caribou, or kangaroo! Their latest offering is
the Tuesday happy hour, with fresh blueberry margaritas
and discounted appetizers. $
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