AROUND THE WORLD

From Montreal to New Zealand and points between, these 11 gay-friendly destinations span the globe

by Josef Molnar

With war in Iraq officially ended and SARS worries easing, many of us are ready to travel. We suggest 11 welcoming spots, plus more on www.outsmartmagzine.com (and we recommend checking in with a GLBT-friendly travel agent). For those who might want to stay closer to home these days, we offer extra North American destinations.

Wellington

At roughly the size of the British Isles, New Zealand and its capital, Wellington, provide a great atmosphere for the gay traveler to explore the civilized and not so civilized. Lake Taupo and the Waitomo Caves to the north offer great day trips, and a ferry trip across Cook Strait will put you on the road to Mount Cook and Fox Glacier. Wellington also offers enough to satisfy more urban types. The gay heart of “The City of Sails” is Dixon Street, where numerous cafes and bookstores are great places to meet people. At night, stop by La Luna or Pound, and then at Tatou, a great after-hours bar on Cambridge Terrace. More info: www.gaynewzealand.com.

Budapest

The Paris of the East, Budapest is actually two cities separated by the Danube River: Buda, the western, hilly side, and Pest, the flatter and more energetic side. Stroll along the Danube and shop at the vast Esceri flea market, take a day trip to nearby Lake Balaton’s sandy, crowded shores, or visit the imposing Buda Castle on the west bank. The famous Turkish baths are an old and respected Hungarian tradition, and the Vth district gives has such venues as Chaos Bar at Dohány and Nagydiófa or Darling Bar on Szep. Stay near the bars at the Dembinszky Street Apartments or the KM Saga (www.gaystay.net/Dembinszky and www.gaystay.net/Kmsaga respectively). More info: http://budapest.gayguide.net.

Mumbai

Still known to foreigners as Bombay but renamed a few years ago, Mumbai reflects its heritage as a Portuguese and British holding and development under Indian rule. Located on the west coast of India, Mumbai is the home of the Bollywood film industry. While gay life is not always obvious, the city is open to different appetites. Gay people congregate on the city’s south side. Be sure to party at Voodoos on Colaba near “The Gateway” or Paparazzi on Juhu Tara, across from Juhu Beach. In late September, the full moon turns gay-central Chowpatty Beach into a free-for-all during the religious festival honoring Ganesha, the fun-loving, elephant-headed patron god of Mumbai and de facto guardian of gays. More info: www.fridae.com.

Cuzco

Gay travelers visit Cuzco, once the capital of the Inca empire, for both the unrivaled natural beauty and archeological ruins. While lacking a significant gay nightlife scene, this Peruvian city is progressive by South American standards, and gay couples are fairly common, at least in touristy places. Visitors may be surprised to see the oft-shown rainbow Incan flag. Two welcoming establishments, both in the San Blas neighborhood, are The Witches’ Garden, owned by three gay men from New York, and the hip cafe Macondo. Take time to see the religious Sacsayhuaman (pronounced “sexy woman”) Fortress site and the nearby ruins of Machu Picchu as well as the luminous waters of Lake Titicaca to the southeast. More info: www.limatours.com.pe or www.gayperu.com.

Cape Town

Located at the tip of South Africa, this sophisticated former Dutch colony spreads out in a semi-circle along the Atlantic and is dominated by the flat-topped Table Mountain. Cape Town offers great day-trip opportunities to the wine country in the northeast and the beach-covered Garden Route along the southeastern coast. You can also schedule a safari through the region’s game preserves. Visit the De Waterkant Village section of Cape Town, where rainbow flags hang from shops in abundance, and the area lights up with festive men and women at night. More info: www.cape-town.org (click on “Gay and Lesbian” in the directory).

St. Croix

While there may be few true gay meeting places on St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands, visitors strolling along the broad swaths of sand on this so-called “gay Virgin Island” may note a high number of gaydar alerts. If you want to see the Buck Island Reef National Monument, be prepared to get wet: The reef is the only underwater national monument in the United States. Fortunately, male and female snorkeling instructors abound. Gay-owned resorts include the Cormorant Beach Club and Sandcastle on the Beach (www.sandcastleonthebeach.com).

San Miguel de Allende

A getaway to San Miguel de Allende is a great first trip to Mexico. Located about 150 miles north of Mexico City, the city offers visitors a chance to experience the ornate architecture and culture of the colonial period. Walk through the cobbled stone streets around the Plaza Allende and marvel at the mild weather as you visit the Tuesday market and quaint shops, and then take a trip to the nearby mountains and ranches. The town also offers a number of day-trip options. Visitors can stay at gay-friendly spots like the Terrazas San Miguel villas (www.terrazassanmiguel.com) and eat at Olé Olé, a festive restaurant that serves great fajitas, or El Market Bistro, which celebrities are known to visit just for the food.

San Jose

Although the capital of Costa Rica bustles with a population of around 300,000, a mere 40-minute drive leads to verdant, tranquil countryside. From glistening beaches and titanic volcanoes to brilliant rainforest canopy and moss-banked rivers, visitors will find plenty of nature to see. But don’t forget the wonders of man: San Jose is the home of Central America’s most developed gay culture. At night, lounge lizards will be happy in most hotel bars in the downtown area, while students and the young at heart will have no problem mixing in at the livelier spots around town. The boys can start the night at Cucharones on Avenue 6 between Calles Central and 1, and ladies will enjoy La Tertulia near the Universidad de Costa Rica. More info: www.gaycostarica.com.

Montreal

Canada’s second-largest city, this former French colony certainly hasn’t forgotten its roots. Nestled on a pair of islands in the St. Lawrence River, Montreal’s older narrow, winding streets can make seasoned travelers think they have dropped into the heart of a European city. Enjoy the picturesque Old Montréal and Old Port areas on your way to gay-friendly Ste-Catherine Street East, Casino de Montréal, or the latest festival. If you want some excitement, prepare to be wowed by the week-long Black and Blue Festival in October. The circuit party and AIDS fundraiser is reportedly the world’s largest. Montreal will host the 2006 Gay Games. More info: Gay Village Tourist Information Center, www.ccgq.ca.

Rehoboth Beach

In the past 15 years or so, gay boys and girls from Baltimore, Philadelphia, and Washington, D.C., have started flocking to a strip of land nestled along the southern Delaware coastline. Most of Rehoboth Beach is protected as state park and recreational area, and miles of its pale sand are relatively free from development. For the girls, north is the place to go—to the North Shores, to be exact. The bronzed boys of summer will find a lot to see at Poodle Beach on the south end of the boardwalk. At night, Rehoboth Avenue’s crowded bar strip gives meaning to the term Cloud 9 at the bar of the same name, and women will find a little slice of heaven at Frogg Pond, a popular watering hole. More info: www.gayrehoboth.com.

Santa Fe

This one-time frontier outpost is the perfect place to visit New Mexico’s Native American Pueblo communities in the summer on horseback, ski the white slopes of the nearby mountains in the winter, and raft down the Rio Grande. You can also dine in any of its great restaurants under the velvety, glittering night sky as you sample wines from area vineyards. Santa Fe is also the home and inspiration for artists like Georgia O’Keefe. Close to downtown’s Plaza, the Inn of the Turquoise Bear (www.turquoisebear.net) occupies the home of the gay poet, Witter Bynner, whose set the standard for being gay in Santa Fe. A gay district has recently begun to develop along Guadalupe Street. More info: www.santafehra.org.

Josef Molnar reported on tax-time issues in our April issue.WEB EXTRA!

Fiji

The rich culture of Polynesia remains relatively unscathed in this Pacific home of the “Bula” people, and the greeting is certainly voiced in the region’s beautiful scenery. Most people will want to stay at places like the Nadi Bay Hotel on Wailoloa road in Nadi, the capital city, but it’s easy to branch from there to the more remote areas of the country. If you’re inclined to stay in the remote reaches, the Maravu Plantation (www.maravu.net) can’t be beat. An island-hopping plane or boat ride will take you to Kadavu Island, well known for scuba diving and village life. After that, try the Yasawa Islands, which are famous for sunshine and beautiful beaches. Be sure to visit the reefs with a dive into the spectacular sunlit canyons to see abundant fish, sharks, large sea snakes, and beautiful soft corals. Although it looks like muddy water, the native kava drink is an excellent way to commiserate with the local people, and its mild sedative properties will ensure every night is like sleeping on a cloud.

Sydney

Simmering summers, dozens of harbors and South Pacific beaches, world-class shopping, dining and entertainment venues with a dance and bar scene second to none, and a gay-friendly political climate come together in Australia’s most famous city. Visit the world-famous Great Barrier Reef, take a ride on the Manly Beach Ferry, and enjoy a drive to nearby Melbourne. The city certainly has its share of wildlife along Oxford Street, but the city’s second heart is in Newtown and Leichardt. Here you’ll find the Imperial Hotel, home to the long-running “Priscilla, Queen of the Desert” show, as well as other local meeting places. For gay-friendly accommodations, try the Park Lodge Hotel on South Dowling Street across from Moores Park, or Governors on Fitzroy. For more information, visit www.gayaustraliaguide.com.

Amsterdam

This classic Dutch city has consistently placed at the top of gay to-do lists. Although its status as a sin cit" of legalized drugs and a laissez-faire atmosphere keeps it high on the party circuit, Amsterdam also has a more tranquil side. Amsterdam is also home to Van Gogh, Rembrandt, flower parades, antique fairs, and the Keukenhof Gardens. Materialists will also appreciate the Amsterdam Diamond Center, opposite the Royal Palace in Dam Square. For the gay scene, the city is your oyster: Check out trendy Reguliersdwarsstraat, the more laid-back Halvemaansteeg near the Amstel River, cozy Kerkstraat, or the glaring Red Light District of Warmoesstraat. The Holland Tourism Office Web site even has a section for gay people at http://www2.holland.com/us/.

Ibiza

The idyllic beaches and frenetic nightlife on this Mediterranean island off of the Spanish coast never fails to amaze visitors, and more than one jaded partier has had his fires stoked at this exotic retreat. Most of the gay bars are situated on or near the Calle de la Virgen in the eastern end of Ibiza Town, and Anfora serves up a great dance mix. During the day, visit Playa Es Cavallet. This beach is almost 100 percent gay, and nude sunbathing is common. A small rock beach, Los Molinas, is a well-hidden retreat. Be sure to rent a car and drive north to enjoy the island’s secluded coves and splendid isolation. Or visit one of the island’s many picturesque villages such as Santa Gertrudis, in the very heart of Ibiza, or Santa Ines, an area famous for its buttery almonds.

Venice

There is no question that this City of Canals is the quintessential place for romance, whether just budding or in full bloom. The placid waters allow the famous gondoliers to quietly paddle their way around the city, past the Doges Palace and the Bridge of Sighs. When you tire of that, the famous glass factories, airy cafes, and quaint shops are always open to visitors. Enjoy the Venice Gay Film Festival in late June, or dance the night away at Movida Disco on via Belgio. Stay at Casa de Uscoli on San Marco or the Hotel Basilea on the Rio Marin for gay-friendly accommodations.

Buenos Aires

With a diverse mosaic of neighborhoods and well-tended parks, Buenos Aires will certainly give you plenty to do. From its grand boulevards to the winding streets of Arroyo, the city offers an endless variety of boutiques, galleries, and antique shops. The Sunday flea market in San Telmo and antiques fair at the Plaza Dorego provides excellent, leisurely people watching and shopping, and conversation with a stranger is as easy to start as a well-tuned car. The city is proud of its European heritage, and it takes its style cues from Milan and Paris. The gay scene rivals Chelsea in New York for its fashion- and image-conscious crowds. Lesbians and gay men socialize on a comfortable, fairly low-key level, often in the city’s many trendy outdoor cafes and stylish restaurants along Santa Fe Avenue, plus a decent number of gay bars.

Rio de Janeiro

Few of the world’s cities are more captivating than Rio de Janeiro. The city’s dramatic, rolling terrain is literally covered with a sprawling web of public buildings, monuments, and residences. The sun-dazzled beaches at Impanema are a popular tourist and local spot, and accommodations abound. The nearby Praça da Paz, Baixo Farme, and Baixo Quitéria quarters also offer great shopping. Remember that the night crowd doesn’t get started until midnight, with many bars and clubs staying open until the sun rises. You might want to stop by the Copacabana neighborhood to get warmed up before hitting incredible clubs like Meli Melo in Lagoa. The ultimate party takes place in February, where the world-famous Carnival rivals the New Orleans Mardi Gras celebration. More info: Visit www.riogayguide.com.

Victoria Falls

Appropriately labeled one of the seven natural wonders of the world, Zambia’s Victoria Falls is more of a regional hub than just the site of Africa’s number-one tourist attraction. In fact, this juncture of four African countries—Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe—gives gay travelers more than enough to do in one trip. The thundering cacophony and misty air filled with rainbows created by the Great Zambezi River is unforgettable, and the rainbows are even visible during the full moon. Gay-friendly hotels like the Royal Livingstone offer a welcome respite from safaris and trips through such locations as the jungles, the Kalahari and Luangwa Valley.

Saint Maarten

This tiny pocket been jointly owned by France and the Netherlands for 350 years, and its north and south ends reflect the dominant cultures of both. With 36 beaches, casinos, and a score of hidden natural treasures, it pays to be prepared to explore. The popular—and very gay—Cupecoy Bay Beach on the Dutch tail of the island is actually a string of three white-sand beaches set against a backdrop of caves, beautiful rock formations, and cliffs that provide morning shade. Or go south to Fort Amsterdam near Phillipsburg, the capital, which has a vibrant gay scene. Only a few walls remain of the 400-year-old fort, but the view is panoramic and well worth the climb to the summit. For true privacy, visit Ilet Pinel, an uninhabited island off the northeast coast, near Orient Beach.

Puerto Vallarta

The contrast of cobalt blue surf and sable sands gives most visitors more than enough reason to keep coming back to this port on the Mexican Riviera. Cradled in the wedge of Banderas Bay and straddling the Cuale River, the bustling city gives gay people in the Centro and south-end “Romantic Zone” a place to congregate. In between tanning sessions on the Playa de los Muertos, the famous “blue chairs” gay beach to the south of Los Muertes Pier, tourists in search of the real Mexico can easily strike out east into the city proper. The whirlwind Mexico Women’s Week in October and Latin Fever festival in November give visitors a chance to enjoy an electric time when everyone else is still at work.

Lake Tahoe/Reno

Visitors to Lake Tahoe and Reno sometimes find themselves ping-ponging between the two, and for good reason. Both straddle the California/Nevada border about 30 minutes apart. While most of the lake’s visitors enjoy the North Shore’s snow-covered peaks, the warm, green valleys and cobalt waters of the Tahoe Basin region also offer unique sites for summer time pleasures. From mid-July to late August, the lake offers a great backdrop for its annual Summer Music Festival. If you feel like taking a sinful spin, cruise over to Reno’s casino bonanza and try your hand at the temptations there. If you’re out in June, visit the nine-day Reno Rodeo, where international ropers and riders compete to see who will end up on top. You can also check out the Burning Man Festival, a self-expression free-for-all held each year around Labor Day.

Puerto Rico

Visitors to this tiny East Caribbean commonwealth can choose from climates and scenery ranging from the fertile, green region of the north, the central mountains, the arid south with golden dunes, and the vast banana plantations in the west. If you are looking for the gay scene, you will want to stick around the southern tip of Gran Canaria and the ever-popular Yumbo Center, which sits about half-way up the main drag, the Avenue Tirajana. Enjoy the powdery dunes and old lighthouse of Maspalomas during the day, and by night the warm lights of Playa del Ingles beckon from a half-hour journey away.

Russian River

The River, as San Franciscans call its retreat to the north, has long attracted gay and lesbian travelers from around the country, and with good reason. The rustic scenery is sprinkled with multicultural wildlife of all kinds, and every summer weekend sees a West Coast version of Fire Island along its ridged length. Although most of the accommodations are less than slick, all social strata will find someplace to nest. The River is also close to the heart of California’s stylish wine country, which increases its appeal for those who are less at ease with nature. Start at www.russianriverresort.com for a lengthy list of events and club spaces.

Chicago

Hugging the southwest shores of Lake Michigan, Chicago offers the cosmopolitan air of a large city, the nearby freedom of nature, and Canada’s southern shores. This third-largest American city still features great jazz clubs, and late June offers a great Pride Fest/Weed Street Fest combination. The tree-lined Fullerton Avenue and DePaul University north of downtown are the cornerstones of the Lincoln Park area, which caters to the college and gay and lesbian communities. As an alternative nightlife center, the area offers a variety of bars, dance clubs, and inexpensive restaurants, where a leisurely stroll during the day will give you ideas for what to do at night.

If you have any comments about this article, please email them to letters@outsmartmagazine.com.