| DineOut
by Eric A.T. Dieckman
THE OUTSIDERS
Take advantage of our springtime window with some
al fresco dining 
Spring has returned. Time to return those sweaters
to their tidy little bags with a few balls of
cedar. Time to enjoy the outdoors in that brief
window of time when temperatures are pleasant,
the air is vitalized by balmy breezes, and the
mosquito larvae have yet to hatch, driven by a
voracious appetite for human blood. Time to savor
a good meal or brunch on the patio of your favorite
bistro. Here are a few places where any meal can
be made even more delightful by adding a dash
of al fresco.
Maria Selma (pictured, photo by Yvonne Feece)
This is distinctive, authentic Mexican food rather
than Tex-Mex. Maria Selma (named after the principal
owner Joseph Varon’s mother) styles its
menu after a Mexico City fonda, a small restaurant
that serves simple, typical food. Mexico City
ex-pats have discovered the place and made it
their second home. Executive chef and co-owner
Renee Hidalgo left Bistro Vino and Brownstone
to recreate the dishes he grew up cooking and
eating. Among the notable differences are the
enchiladas. The tortillas are dipped in sauce
then fried. After being topped with chicken or
beef, a modest sprinkle of queso fresco (fresh
cheese) is added rather than a pile of greasy
cheddar and Monterey Jack. Brunchers appreciate
the roomy patio facing Richmond and the eggs Albanil.
The mildly tangy tomatillo sauce adds a delightful
eye-opening quality to this delightful dish.
1617 Richmond • 713/528-4920 • www.mariaselma.com
Barnaby’s Café
Though the three Barnaby’s are no more than
five or 10 minutes apart, each is a reflection
of its neighborhood. The bistro on Shepherd, with
a cozy deck facing the street, transforms an otherwise
ordinary curbside restaurant into a sidewalk café.
Sandwiches and light fare are more popular at
this location than at the others. Patrons like
to modify their orders here, trimming down the
fatty items and bulking up the healthy items.
To their credit, the staff doesn’t mind
or make a fuss.
1701 S. Shepherd • 713/520-5131
Biba’s One’s a Meal
This venerable spot offers late-night dining to
practically every life form imaginable. Artists,
bohemians, party people, night owl GLBT couples,
police officers on break—there’s always
someone interesting to ogle. The food is almost
as diverse as the crowd. The outdoor patio provides
an amenable sanctuary at 4:30 a.m., replete with
breakfast, burgers, mini-pizzas, calzones, gyros,
and stuffed grape leaves. The adventurous find
entertainment in the Greek culinary spectacle
known as “flaming cheese.” Then there’s
the personality of the place. Whether your waiter
is the comically abrasive Greek gentleman named
Yanni or a charming German woman with a comforting
maternal nature, the staff and clientele make
One’s a Meal more than a diner. It’s
dinner and a show.
607 W. Gray • 713/523-8432
El Pueblito
The expansive enclosed courtyard at El Pueblito
serves as a sanctuary from the city, with lush
landscaping and the tropical flavors of pineapple
salsa and citrus-glazed snapper filets. The spring
breeze and distinctly Central and Southern American
flavors of the seafood menu create a sense of
tropical paradise. This is one of the best modestly
priced south-of-the-border restaurants in town
for seafood, with succulent fish tacos and the
Hot and Crazy, a colorful mixture of shrimp and
scallops. If a trip to Cancun is not in your budget,
visit their patio for the weekend.
1423 Richmond • 713/522-6596
Hollywood Vietnamese & Chinese
In the midst of the Pacific Street District (and
only a few steps away from South Beach), Hollywood’s
Viet-Chino restaurant offers high-quality dining
at mid-range prices. The specials typically have
something of interest, as does the wine list.
Vegetable dishes always have a distinct freshness.
On top of all this, Hollywood is one of the few,
the proud, gay-owned and -operated restaurants
in Houston. Sit on the patio with a bowl of bun
(a vermicelli dish made with lemongrass and other
delicious elements) and ogle the buns of the boys
on the way to the Beach.
2409 Grant • 713/523-8808 • www.hollywoodvietnameserestaurant1.com
Niko Niko’s
www.nikonikos.com
For their French fries alone, Niko Niko’s
merits high recognition. The gyros here are hard
to beat. For a few dollars more, try the snapper.
The eggplant boat is stuffed with decadent hunks
of creamy feta. If you prefer Americana, the nicely
seasoned pork chops and the chicken Philly do
the trick. The cozy terrace has an unmistakable,
but not overwhelming, Greek theme.
2520 Montrose Blvd. • 713/528-1308 •
www.nikonikos.com
Noche Cocina y Bar
With its quaint little fountain, Noche’s
veranda offers a charming setting that matches
its equally charming food and willing-to-please
kitchen. If the special that sent you into convulsive
pleasure the other day is not on the menu or chalkboard
today, just ask. Most likely, the kitchen can
make it for you anyway. The crawfish enchiladas
are one favorite former special that the kitchen
has almost always been able to recreate. Their
delicate creamy sauce is fantastic, as are the
crab cakes. The on-the-menu Veracruz dish chicken
Pibil is another fantasy come to life. Rubbed
in cumin, cinnamon, and achiote paste, then wrapped
in banana leaves to seal in the flavor, the chicken
is flavorful and as plump and juicy as chunks
of fish.
2409 Montrose Blvd. • 713/529-8559 •
www.nocherestauranthouston.com
River Café
Would this place still be around after all these
years without its petite patio? Facing a chic
stretch of the boulevard where Montrose and the
Museum District meet, stylish beautiful people
gather here to eat fantastic food and be seen,
especially during Sunday brunch. Among the brunchy
delights are Eggs Florentine and Eggs St. Charles,
which boasts an English muffin topped with a crab
cake. Jazz lovers have also flocked to the site
at least since the ’80s.
3615 Montrose Blvd. • 713/529-0088
Eric Dieckman reported on romantic restaurants
in the February issue.
If you have any comments about this article,
please email them to letters@outsmartmagazine.com.
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