Out of Town

by Andrew Collins

KEY INGREDIENTS

Key West offers resorts for all travelers of all stripes

Key West is one of the world's favorite gay retreats, especially among travelers looking to spend a week or two at a self-contained, gay-exclusive resort. There are only three other places in the United States that offer such an abundance of gay-oriented accommodations-Provincetown, Palm Springs, and Fort Lauderdale. Compared to these, Key West stands out because it is warm and sunny year-round, most of its gay resorts occupy vintage buildings in a quaint historic district, and virtually all of them lie within an easy walk of restaurants and gay bars.

This tiny island just 100 miles north of Havana, is known for its clothing-optional-and in some cases rather racy-retreats. One of these places caters to lesbians, another to gay men and lesbians, and the rest to gay men. This column focuses chiefly on gay-oriented properties, but keep in mind that Key West also has a number of lodgings-from inns to full-service resorts to tiny B&Bs-that welcome both gays and straights. Many of these are listed on the web site of the island's gay/lesbian chamber of commerce, the Key West Business Guild.

Alexander's

This long-popular gay resort has the relatively unusual policy of being both clothing-optional and of welcoming women and men alike. This makes Alexander's ideal for gay guys traveling with lesbian friends or for any queer vacationers who enjoy a mixed-gender atmosphere. The effect is that the mood around the pool and hot tub tends to be less cruisy than at single-gender resorts. Aromatic tropical flowers, sundecks, rattan and wicker furnishings, and sparkling tiled bathrooms impart Alexander's with a classy but casual look. The main 1910 house has been flawlessly restored, and several newer units have been added on over the years. A few rooms have private verandahs.

Atlantic Shores Resort

Site of the popular oceanfront bar-and-grill of the same name, the Art Deco-inspired Atlantic Shores differs considerably from other gay properties in town: It's a motel-style lodging with 72 units facing a landscaped parking lot. This spot is a bit of a walk from the Historic District, but just off Duval Street, the heart of Key West dining and nightlife. Rooms are just steps from the outdoor bar and grill, whose amenities include a big pool and a long wooden pier jutting into the ocean. Hotel guests, but also folks from all over town, flock to this clothing-optional hangout all day, and especially at dusk, when the pier affords outstanding sunset views. The rooms themselves have a standard motel layout, made more cheerful by attractive furniture and festive color schemes. Many have refrigerators, microwaves, and coffeemakers. Devotees of the Atlantic Shores appreciate the fact that you can stay here and never feel forced to meet another guest, but you also have the option of being social at the bar and grill. Straights are quite welcome here, as long as they're cool with the tres gay ambience.

Big Ruby's  

Though less than a block from Duval Street, this resort is hidden behind high walls from noise and street traffic. The grounds feature towering palm trees and fragrant flowers, an abundance of sundecks, and an outdoor shower large enough for two. Rooms are warm, contemporary, spotless, and full of light. All have TV/VCRs, mini-refrigerators, A/C, and ceiling fans. A complimentary cooked breakfast is included in the rates. As for the staff: You won't find a more professional bunch of guys in Key West.

Coconut Grove

Next door to the Oasis (see below), this highly social, all-male compound consists of three buildings with rooms available in a variety of configurations, accommodating from one to six guests. This is one of the latest properties to undergo a full (and much-needed) renovation, and its rooms now look better than ever, with updated furnishings and cheerful yet tasteful color schemes. Amenities include a large pool and hot tub, and the rates are quite reasonable. The roof deck is one of the highest points in the historic district (which means that you can sometimes ogle cute guys at neighboring properties).

Equator

A recently built gay resort along Fleming Street (the historic district's main drag), Equator has unusually plush rooms with contemporary Caribbean-influenced furniture. Designer fabrics, feather pillows with comforters, Mediterranean-tile floors, large closets, phones with voice mail and data ports, and strong sound insulation add to the comfort of each unit. Some have wet bars, French doors, cathedral ceilings, and double whirlpool tubs. The tradeoff is that the Equator's grounds, although nicely landscaped, are smaller than at some of its competitors. There is a compact pool and an oversize Jacuzzi tub. This is a great choice if you plan to spend more time in your room than around the pool but still want the camaraderie and occasional cruisiness of a gay-male resort.

Fleur de Keys

This cozy, beautiful compound, formerly known as the Brass Key, consists of two immaculate clapboard buildings and offers perhaps the classiest gay-resort experience on the island. The place feels like a tiny Ritz-Carlton (indeed, the previous owner worked for the Ritz chain). Rooms have sumptuous high-thread-count linens, Crabtree & Evelyn and Caswell-Massey bath amenities, bathrooms with massage showerheads, phones with data ports and voice mail, seersucker bathrobes, TV/VCRs, and in some cases Bose CD stereos. The solicitous staff tends effortlessly to every guest's needs and keeps the place in tip-top shape, and a lavish breakfast buffet and early evening cocktail hour are included.

Island House

For years this sprawling spread (a former cigar factory) on the eastern edge of the Historic District was synonymous with sex, sleaze, shabbiness, and surliness. It's still synonymous with sex. But, happily, new owners have completely rebuilt the place, hired friendly and competent staff, and created lovely rooms with high-quality furnishings (all have VCR/TVs, direct-dial phones with data ports, refrigerators, safes, and plush linens; some have microwaves). If you're seeking a steamy ambience but also first-rate accommodations and a safe, friendly environment, the Island House is your dream come true. Amenities, all of them available 24 hours, include a heated pool, indoor and outdoor Jacuzzis, gym, sauna, steam room, and an erotic-male-video lounge. A bar serves cocktails during the day and evening, a highlight being the complimentary happy hour each night, where guests get to mingle and perhaps figure out who they hope to bump into in the video lounge later that evening.

The Oasis and Coral Tree Inn

These historic buildings sit across from each other on Fleming Street and provide quite different settings, yet similar social experiences. Regardless of which property you stay in, you are welcome to use the extensive grounds of the other. If it's a more romantic, sophisticated space you want, book a room in the century-old Coral Tree, whose 11 units have rich fabrics, antiques, and the feel of a small, upscale hotel. Social butterflies might prefer one of the 20 rooms at the Oasis, which are less formal but still warmly appointed. Many Oasis units overlook the large pool and 24-man Jacuzzi, and you'll find more public areas for socializing at this property. Both places offer clothing-optional pool areas and are staffed by the same easy-going but highly professional guy. Arguably, after the Island House, the Oasis is the most sexually playful of the Key West resorts.

Pearl's Rainbow

Known as the Rainbow House until new owners took over a couple of years ago, this sprawling 38-room resort is Key West's only lesbian-exclusive accommodation. Prior to the change in ownership, the Rainbow's quality had begun to slip a little, so the recent improvements have been well received. The rooms have been renovated with new rattan and wicker furniture, freshly painted pastel-hued walls, large TVs, and refrigerators. Many configurations are available, from simple budget-oriented units set away from the noise of the pools and decks, to more spacious rooms closer to the action, some with kitchenettes or separate sitting areas. The resort encompasses several buildings, including cottages that once provided housing for the workers of a cigar factory that formerly occupied the main building. There are two heated pools and spacious sundecks. This is a wonderful hideaway, whether you are looking to make new friends or enjoy a little peace and quiet with your honey.

Andrew Collins is the author of Fodor's Gay Guide to the USA and eight additional travel guides. He can be reached at GayFodors@aol.com. For more Out of Town, visit www.gaytravel.com.

The Little Black Book

Resorts charge the highest rates during the high season (roughly mid-November through mid-April), at which time the most basic units at most properties begin around $100 to $120 per night. Luxury suites can run as high as $300 or more per night. Most properties offer a range of rates, depending on amenities.

Alexander's, 1118 Fleming St., 305/294-9919 or 800/654-9919, www.alexghouse.com.

Atlantic Shores Resort, 510 South St., 305/296-2491 or 800/598-6988, www.atlanticshoresresort.com.

Big Ruby's, 409 Appelrouth Lane, 305/296-2323 or 800/477-7829, www.bigrubys.com.

Coconut Grove, 815 Fleming St., 305/296-5107 or 800/262-6055, www.coconutgrovekeywest.com.

Equator, 818 Fleming St., 305/294-7775 or 800-278-4552, www.equatorresort.com.

Fleur de Keys, 412 Frances St., 305/296-4719 or 800/932-9119, www.fleurdekey.com.

Island House, 1129 Fleming St., 305/294-6284 or 800/890-6284, www.islandhousekeywest.com.

Key West Business Guild (gay), 305/294-4603 or 800-535-7797, www.gaykeywestfl.com.

Key West Chamber of Commerce (mainstream), 305/294-2587, www.keywestparadise.com.

Oasis and Coral Tree Inn, 822 and 823 Fleming St., 305/296-2131 or 800-362-7477, www.keywest-allmale.com.

Pearl's Rainbow, 525 United St., 305/292-1450 or 800-749-6696, www.pearlsrainbow.com.